HELP Boiler working water heating BUT radiators not heating?

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As above, suddenly the house radiators have stopped heating up.

I've got a baxi solo 2 50 rs boiler which is working fine. Pilot on, fires up on own, or can activate by turning thermos. Honeywell thermos. 1 in hall, and 1 in garage (where boiler is).

water is heating. got gas supply as heating lounge fire....
but suddenly none of the radiators will get any heat...

can you help with if its me being a numbnuts, or what the likely cause is.

thanks
 
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try switching the 3port valve to manual see if the radiators warm up sounds like a 3 port problem
 
try switching the 3port valve to manual see if the radiators warm up sounds like a 3 port problem
i

Many thanks for the reply Stingray. sorry for my ignorance... Where would I find this 3 port valve and how would i switch to manual?

thanks
 
Probably in your airing cupboard next to the HW cylinder. You may have a 3 port valve or 2 x 2 port valves, in which case it will be the heating one that gas failed.

All the above assumes it is a fully pumped system you have. If by any slight chance it is a gravity system, then it will be the pump that is knackered.
 
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Probably in your airing cupboard next to the HW cylinder. You may have a 3 port valve or 2 x 2 port valves, in which case it will be the heating one that gas failed.

All the above assumes it is a fully pumped system you have. If by any slight chance it is a gravity system, then it will be the pump that is knackered.

Thanks Dave.

As you thought. Its a Drayton MA1 and all 3 pipes are red hot. No obvious way of switching manually though that I could see?

it doesnt look like others with a simple turn screw on?
 
When both HW and CH is selected, the valve should automatically move to the correct position according to what is satisfied and what still needs to be satisfied.
There is a time when both HW and CH are both in demand so the valve takes up the middle position and works as it should. The problem arises when HW becomes satisfied, so the valve moves over to CH only. This closes the HW port and opens up the CH port fully and also triggers a micro switch to fire the boiler.
The usual problem is that the valve does not move to CH only or if it does the boiler does not light due to faulty micro switch.
There is a slight chance the wiring that provides the power to move the valve from mid position onwards is at fault (grey wire).
There is also a chance that the valves spindle is stiff, making it too hard for the motor to overcome.
There is a higher chance that the motor is faulty and there is a similar chance that the micro switch is faulty.
If you can verify the valve moves to the 3 different positions, you then know it's the micro switch and a replacement actuator head is needed.
Note not all valves are constructed in a way that permits a replacment heat, so it may have to be a new complete valve.
Using the lever on the side to latch the valve in midposition does not however cure the problem.
 
When both HW and CH is selected, the valve should automatically move to the correct position according to what is satisfied and what still needs to be satisfied.
There is a time when both HW and CH are both in demand so the valve takes up the middle position and works as it should. The problem arises when HW becomes satisfied, so the valve moves over to CH only. This closes the HW port and opens up the CH port fully and also triggers a micro switch to fire the boiler.
The usual problem is that the valve does not move to CH only or if it does the boiler does not light due to faulty micro switch.
There is a slight chance the wiring that provides the power to move the valve from mid position onwards is at fault (grey wire).
There is also a chance that the valves spindle is stiff, making it too hard for the motor to overcome.
There is a higher chance that the motor is faulty and there is a similar chance that the micro switch is faulty.
If you can verify the valve moves to the 3 different positions, you then know it's the micro switch and a replacement actuator head is needed.
Note not all valves are constructed in a way that permits a replacment heat, so it may have to be a new complete valve.
Using the lever on the side to latch the valve in midposition does not however cure the problem.

Thanks Mandate.

cant see valves switching. I asssume this means its just sitting in HW only, which would explain why no CH at any time (I would have assumed that CH would be in operation if it was ever in the middle position?)

Grey wire appears securely connected.

Gave the thing a tap to see if it might free up...but nothing. (yes the height of my technical skills!)

Sounds like its a job for a plumber now ...

Many thanks for everyones help.
 

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