Help:Rebuild or install Rsj. Right way not bodge.
- Thread starter Bouba
- Start date
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The photos aren't the right way round!
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Best i could take due to space clearance.
Internal timber lintel looks ok. Its just this arch I am worried about.Funny enough i have taken few pics with I phone and despite me holding the phone correct they are being uploaded the way you are seeing.
Internal timber lintel looks ok. Its just this arch I am worried about.Funny enough i have taken few pics with I phone and despite me holding the phone correct they are being uploaded the way you are seeing.
Just re-build it.
Easier said than done with a brick arch. If the inner skin's OK, might be easiest to get a 4x4 steel andgle and rebuild the outer skin off that, but in normal stretcher bond, not as an arch.
Thank you tony. Is there a rsj for 4x4. Why did they build arches and not normal stretcher bonds with the lintel.
As it is going to be external wall, I suppose timber will not be suitable. Rest of process also to insert the lintel or rsj is going to be similar to taking off internal wall! What padstone size will I need. Will a 9x9 padstone suffice.
Thanks.
As it is going to be external wall, I suppose timber will not be suitable. Rest of process also to insert the lintel or rsj is going to be similar to taking off internal wall! What padstone size will I need. Will a 9x9 padstone suffice.
Thanks.
A 4"x4" angle is just that, an upstand 4" tall, and a ledge 4" out to support the brickwork (it is not an rsj).
Arches on the outer skin in common use up to the War, because an arch is self-supporting so does not need a lintel.
The other option was to build stretcher bond directly off the frame, but this is not possible if a door frame is recessed into the wall, hence the arch.
Any steel stockholder will keep lengths of 4x4 angle.
Just coat it well before installing; 6" bearing each side would be OK; no need for padstones as it will not be heavily loaded.
As regards building control; the purists will be along any minute to say you need it (because it's a structural alteration).
Personally I'd view it as a simple repair - don't worry the council about it (they have enough problems as it is) - and save your money.
Just coat it well before installing; 6" bearing each side would be OK; no need for padstones as it will not be heavily loaded.
As regards building control; the purists will be along any minute to say you need it (because it's a structural alteration).
Personally I'd view it as a simple repair - don't worry the council about it (they have enough problems as it is) - and save your money.
How wide is the opening.
If its an arch, it would look a bit naff with a lintel fitted, ie the head of frame.
Rake out those two loose joints, pack in some sand/cement, and hammer in some slate packers to tighten it back up, re-point.
If its an arch, it would look a bit naff with a lintel fitted, ie the head of frame.
Rake out those two loose joints, pack in some sand/cement, and hammer in some slate packers to tighten it back up, re-point.
Thank you kind souls.The opening is above double door ,1.9 metres wide.
Would pointing with building sand/cement(4:1) be strong enough. Do not want to do it for short term.(Slate packers) aka blue slate chipping from garden cente. Correct me if I am wrong.
Would pointing with building sand/cement(4:1) be strong enough. Do not want to do it for short term.(Slate packers) aka blue slate chipping from garden cente. Correct me if I am wrong.
Yes to the sand/cement
Slate, as in roofing slate.
Slate, as in roofing slate.
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