Honeywell wireless thermostat lost comms

[naz48]

Hi guys,

I have the same honeywell Programmer Stat and RF box and I have a fault with the RF transmitter where it does not send the signal to the bolier to switch off. We have put up with this for 8 weeks. Today the opposite has happened the boiler switched off but the RF box will not send the signal to switch on. I was playing around with the programmer stat and noticed that it had switched off so I thought it was great but now it doesn't turn on. The Programmer Stat and the RF box are talking to each other and I have done the test and binding many times successfully (as mentioned in the above posts). Can this fault be fixed without having to replace the Programmer Stat and RF box?.

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[snb]

if you re-bind the units they will be set up on a different frequency. This may solve the problem. If not the problem could be the distance and obsticles it has to pass through. If it is close to the limit then often having all the doors closed will be enough to cause it to go to lost comm.

On a few occasions i have had to move the receiver unit further away from the boiler and this has solved it.(especially if the receiver is located in the kitchen)

I have only had 3 failures so far in the last 3 years (all of these have been found at install)so these units are reliable

 

[naz48]

Hi,

I'm pretty sure that the STAT and RF box are communicating to each other so I feel there's no fault there. However, the fault is between the RF Reciever box and the boiler (this is the bit which is hard wired) It will not switch the heating off or on as is the case at the moment, the hot water is fine in either case. BTW, The bolier is an Ideal ISAR if this helps (though the fault is not with the bolier)

I've had to put a wire in the connector (L1 to L2) to the bolier so that the bolier is able to run independantly from the STAT/RF for the time being. However, this means I have to manually turn the bolier for heating and hot water which is a pain given I have children in the house. I would appreciate any help and advice on diagnosing the fault. Furthermore, if there is anyone on this forum who lives local to Rochdale who is able to come and see this then I would really appreciate this.

Regards,

Naz

 

[D_Hailsham]

However, the fault is between the RF Receiver box and the boiler (this is the bit which is hard wired)

Does the RF box have a permanent supply to the L and N terminals?

There should be a separate two core cable between the A and B terminals to L1 and L2.

If this is correct and you cannot turn the boiler on/off with the override button on the RF unit, then the RF unit is kaput.


There is more info on testing, rebinding etc in Installation Guide. Ignore the first two pages, which shouldn't be there!

 

[naz48]

Hi,

Currently I have overridden the RF and stat by using a wire between L1 and L2 terminals. These terminals had no cables/wires in. As for the other 3 terminals these have cables in.

I think you may be right in so much that the RF box has gone kapput. I've googled to find out how much the RF costs and I think they can be found for 45 pounds. Is this right? Is this easy enough to replace or does an electrician or gas fitter have to do this?

As always any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Currently I have overridden the RF and stat by using a wire between L1 and L2 terminals. These terminals had no cables/wires in. As for the other 3 terminals these have cables in.

I realize you have temporarily overridden the RF box, I was talking about how it should be wired when in normal use

As I said, if your wiring was correct and pressing the button did not turn on the green light and start the boiler, then the RF is dead.

You should be able to get a replacement, but be careful as Honeywell changed the frequency at which they worked about two years ago and the two versions are not compatible. The current version is the HC60NG aka R6660DXXXX, where XXXX denotes the instruction manual language.

 

[naz48]

Thanks D_Halisham,

Yes, I think you're right about the fact that the RF box is dead. Is it sonething that is easily installed or does an electrician or a gas fitter have to install it. Also, do you need to buy the pair (stat and rf box) as the boiler fitter who looked at ours suggested that they only come as a pair and therefore, cannot be bought individually.

Regards,

Naz

 

[D_Hailsham]

Is it something that is easily installed or does an electrician or a gas fitter have to install it.

As it's just a case of disconnecting the old one and connecting the new one, there is no reason why you should need an electrician. Just make sure you make a diagram before you start of which wire goes where.

And don't forget to turn the power off before you make the changeover.

do you need to buy the pair (stat and rf box) as the boiler fitter who looked at ours suggested that they only come as a pair

The relay box can be bought separately. You need the R6660D1041, which is also called the HC60NG.

As you have not purchased a matching pair of user control and relay box, you will have to "bind" them together, so they talk to each other. The instructions for doing this are in the Installation manual. which should come with the relay box. If not, they are on page 11 of the Installation Guide.

 

[philboy]

although an old thread, this helped me rebind my receiver and cm927 unit. top man! why don't manufacturers post this info somewhere? cynically, i can only assume that it helps keep people employed to come round and press a few buttons and charge people for an hours work?! a sweeping generalism i know, but surely some of these basic fixes aren't dangerous or invaidalte a warranty?

ta

 

[dabhel]

I have Honeywell CMS921B1042 which is used to control my boiler and heating timer settings. Currently the display shows all possible display characters. When I take the batteries out and put it back in it works for 10 mins then displays all characters again. Any advice?