Hotpoint WD420 fault

[elninochino]

I've got a Hotpoint WDL540 which has the xmas lights problem. When one first starts the washing machine, it goes through the commotion of attempting to wash, then few minutes later it stops rinse mode with the issue.

Have taken out the PCB as per the advice, but cannot see a C17 capacitor. PCB looks different to what everyone else has uploaded, though everyone has different models of washing machine. Have had a look around and all capacitors look fine, i.e. no burn marks or bulges.

Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advanced. Photos are below.

Untitled

• elninochino
• 15 Nov 2012
• 1

Untitled

• elninochino
• 15 Nov 2012
• 1

 

[tiltontrev]

30 month old. Fault - worked fine sometimes, all lights flashing sometimes, sometimes failing in mid program. Several sites suggested it was the main PCB at fault.

I decided to take a good look at the PCB first, rather than chase a replacement. Round the back of the machine, you remove a small oval plastic cover, remove the self tapper below it which retains the PCB's casing, then take off the much larger belt/motor access panel too wiggle out the PCB in its white case. Take careful note of what connections go where as the unit is unplugged.

C17, a 680uF 10v electrolytic cap had some mild signs of swelling on top, so I replaced it with new 1000uf 10v from my stock. Which has completely fixed the problem.

Obviously I'm not sure whether this was a one off faulty capacitor on our machine, or whether it might be more widespread. If a design error it might be better to replace the 10v electrolytic with a 16v version.

Just signed up to the forum to say thanks to this post/poster, absolute diamond. Bought the component off eBay (total cost inc delivery-1 shiny pound) fitted as per instruction and working perfectly. Probably saved me £300 odd, if ever you're in Brum the beers are on me!!!!

 

[artis]

30 month old. Fault - worked fine sometimes, all lights flashing sometimes, sometimes failing in mid program. Several sites suggested it was the main PCB at fault.

I decided to take a good look at the PCB first, rather than chase a replacement. Round the back of the machine, you remove a small oval plastic cover, remove the self tapper below it which retains the PCB's casing, then take off the much larger belt/motor access panel too wiggle out the PCB in its white case. Take careful note of what connections go where as the unit is unplugged.

C17, a 680uF 10v electrolytic cap had some mild signs of swelling on top, so I replaced it with new 1000uf 10v from my stock. Which has completely fixed the problem.

Obviously I'm not sure whether this was a one off faulty capacitor on our machine, or whether it might be more widespread. If a design error it might be better to replace the 10v electrolytic with a 16v version.

Just wanted to say thanks to the original poster. I was a bit confused about how to get access to the board & removed the top cover, before I found you had to remove the plastic cover at the back at the bottom of the machine.
Perhaps that's me, not reading all the posts. Thanks for the pictures as well. Got a 16v 1000uF cap from Maplin.
I'm used to repairing things, I won't say what exactly. But it was bloody difficult to get the board out.

 

[Shervi]

Hi guys!

I thought it was the capacitor, but it wasn't. I changed it and it still does exactly the same thing.

I have a hotpoint WDL520, and from the electrical website I went to it seems to be a Mark 8 board.

It will fill the water as per usual, and then it waits a moment... It fills up water another three times in short bursts, and then all the lights start flashing.

I can switch it off and on and pump the water out, but the lights will come on as soon as I do a wash. We have been using the washing machine solid for 2 years, and probably only used the dryer once. On the board there was some black dust on a few bits on the board. I will see if I can put some pics on later.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[rocks1]

Need up know the error lights on the right hand side. They will be solid , ie wash on solid. Rinse off Door lock solid.

 

[Shervi]

Oh sorry, all the lights at the bottom of the panel flash continuously

Untitled

• Shervi
• 28 May 2013
• 1

 

[rocks1]

That is not the error code. It's the lights on the right that's the error. For anyone else who reads this c17 is the error on the wf and wd range only not the wdl model. The cap has been upgraded on that model.

 

[Shervi]

Awesome, thanks for this, will look at this tonight

 

[Shervi]

Hi guys

Finally looked at this.

So I switched it on. I try drying. washing, spinning... anything and it does the same thing

It goes 3-4 mins into starting up and flashes continuously.

I checked the lights. Only the last light i.e.. door lock is on, while the bottom line of lights flash.

It drains the water, and thats that. flashes

 

[Shervi]

Hi guys

Finally looked at this.

So I switched it on. I try drying. washing, spinning... anything and it does the same thing

It goes 3-4 mins into starting up and flashes continuously.

I checked the lights. Only the last light i.e.. door lock is on, while the bottom line of lights flash.

It drains the water, and thats that. flashes

More info in case this helps

The pump kicks in 3-4 times in short bursts ( even in drying or spinning) , then the pump flushes out the water, while the lights just flash.

The only time there is no error is when I just choose it to pump out water

thanks again Rocks1

 

[rocks1]

You got error f01. Motor Triac fault on pcb. Check the motor brushes for wear. Otherwise pcb is shot.

 

[Shervi]

You got error f01. Motor Triac fault on pcb. Check the motor brushes for wear. Otherwise pcb is shot.

I checked the motor, cleaned it up and still nothing.

Ordered a new PCB and all was well again!

Thanks a ton for your help!!! I hope this will benefit someone else in the future!


Thanks guys! Great forum!

 

[dazj99]

30 month old. Fault - worked fine sometimes, all lights flashing sometimes, sometimes failing in mid program. Several sites suggested it was the main PCB at fault.

I decided to take a good look at the PCB first, rather than chase a replacement. Round the back of the machine, you remove a small oval plastic cover, remove the self tapper below it which retains the PCB's casing, then take off the much larger belt/motor access panel too wiggle out the PCB in its white case. Take careful note of what connections go where as the unit is unplugged.

C17, a 680uF 10v electrolytic cap had some mild signs of swelling on top, so I replaced it with new 1000uf 10v from my stock. Which has completely fixed the problem.

Obviously I'm not sure whether this was a one off faulty capacitor on our machine, or whether it might be more widespread. If a design error it might be better to replace the 10v electrolytic with a 16v version.

HarryM1BYT, Thanks Mate! This post 4 years on, is still working beautifully. We purchased our WD420 in 2005 while living in London and then immigrated to Australia in 2006. We packed the whole house including the washing machine. When the lights started flashing this week I rang around a few local repairers and they said as it was a British Machine to forget it. I found this post, paid 80 Aussie cents (51p) for the capacitor and installed it. The machine whirred back to life. Hopefully the WD420 lasts a few more years now it’s back in service. My wife originally from Yorkshire is a happy lady.

 

[HarryM1BYT]

HarryM1BYT, Thanks Mate! This post 4 years on, is still working beautifully. We purchased our WD420 in 2005 while living in London and then immigrated to Australia in 2006. We packed the whole house including the washing machine. When the lights started flashing this week I rang around a few local repairers and they said as it was a British Machine to forget it. I found this post, paid 80 Aussie cents (51p) for the capacitor and installed it. The machine whirred back to life. Hopefully the WD420 lasts a few more years now it’s back in service. My wife originally from Yorkshire is a happy lady.

No problem, glad it worked for you - even at that distance.

Ours has given no trouble since then, so its a pretty reliable machine apart from the PCB, or rather this one cap..

 

[Devoid]

You guessed, looked on the internet for a circuit diagram and found this thread, still going strong after all this time. Quick pop down to Maplins and 57p later (plus a bit of BST!) washing machine back up and running, all thanks to Harry, well done mate!. Try tilting the machine backwards, then you can reach the control board from the back and underneath, makes it a bit easier.