How to wire a 3 pole isolator switch.

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Hi

after advice from some members here i have bought a 3 pole isolator switch to connect to my timer extractor fan.

i have checked the reference posts which shows how to wire to a light switch.

instead i would like to wire it independent of the light switch and using the isolator as a wall switch.

the supply will be coming from a junction box.

can anyone let me know how to wire the switch please. looking at the switch there are 2 holes at the top marked common and 2 unmarked holes at the bottom.

cheers
 
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Hmm, does not sound right.
Can you post a pic of the switch you have bought.

The top row should have 3 terminals: L1 L2 and N
and
the bottom row should also be L1 L2 and N
 
A 3 pole isolator switch should have 6 connections on it, 3 supply, 3 load. It sounds like you haven't got the right thing...

Once you have the right thing however (it should look something like this: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2713.html), then to do what you want, you basically only use two of the terminals, you wire the live and neutral supply in, and then take out a live and neutral to your fan. Connect all the earths together (it may have a terminal for that on the isolator, if not use one in the backbox or a bit of connector block). In the fan, you then need to wire in the live and neutral. If it has a switched live terminal, then you will need a short piece of wire to use as a strapper to link the permanent and switched live terminals.

Also, note that if this fan is in a kitchen or bathroom then the work will be notifiable under Part P...
 
A 3 pole isolator switch should have 6 connections on it, 3 supply, 3 load. It sounds like you haven't got the right thing...

Once you have the right thing however (it should look something like this: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2713.html), then to do what you want, you basically only use two of the terminals, you wire the live and neutral supply in, and then take out a live and neutral to your fan. Connect all the earths together (it may have a terminal for that on the isolator, if not use one in the backbox or a bit of connector block). In the fan, you then need to wire in the live and neutral. If it has a switched live terminal, then you will need a short piece of wire to use as a strapper to link the permanent and switched live terminals.

Also, note that if this fan is in a kitchen or bathroom then the work will be notifiable under Part P...

I dont think that's right. for a timer fan you'll need to route the permanent live (L1) the switched live (L2) and the neutral (N) thru the switch.
It is detailed here //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=65107#65107 item 9.
 
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instead i would like to wire it independent of the light switch and using the isolator as a wall switch.

Taylortwocities - indeed normally you would wire the switched live being from your light switch through the isolator, but for what the OP wants you don't have two lives, just a single one...
 
hi

just got back from wickes and seen your replies.

i had a feeling the switch was wrong so i went out and bought another one from wickes and it is as described by you guys.

i bought the first one from a local hardware shop just down the road from me. and it cost double compared to the one from wickes!

thanks for the help everyone. cheers!
 
The timer on your fan wont work if you use that switch to control it. Since it cuts off all power to it.

You need a standard switch to control the switched live as well.
 
The timer on your fan wont work if you use that switch to control it. Since it cuts off all power to it.

You need a standard switch to control the switched live as well.

sorry mate is this with the first switch or with the second 'proper' switch that i bought?

by the way the first switch just had 2 small holes at the top labeled as common and 2 small holes at the bottom not labeled as anything. and to connect the wires to the terminals it had some spring clips a bit like how they have it on some speakers.
 
A 3 pole fan isolator is used for maintenance purposes. It is mounted close to the fan or out of reach, so that if the fan needs maintenance it can be fully isolated. It cuts off all 3 poles - live, switched live, and neutral.

To make the timed overrun work, the fan requires a permenant live feed, as well as a single switched feed, so when the switched lvie is off, the permenant live keeps the fan going for a preset period of time.

Thus, you need a 1 gang 1 way lightswitch to control your switched live. You cannot use the fan isolator to control the fan, since the timed overrun wont work.
 
Thats fine.

Its just earlier you said you wanted to ue the isolator to control it.
 
xs - it's clear that you are embarking on wiring jobs (notifiable ones, at that) without having a sufficient underpinning of knowledge before you start.

Plunging in and as you bumble along asking whatever questions happen to occur to you as and when is not the way to become safe and competent and properly knowledgeable.

Please call a halt now, and either invest some time in a proper learning exercise, or call an electrician, before something goes horribly wrong because you don't happen to ask about something because you have absolutely no idea that it exists and absolutely no idea that you don't know it....
 

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