Is dry verge tiling worth it?

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by peca27, 30 Aug 2006.

  1. peca27

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    I had an extension built aprox 1986, a double storey ext to the side of my semi. The builder finshed the gable end with a wet verge........but now ALL the cement has fallen out.

    I don't want to have the same problem again 10 yrs down the line, so i was thinking of a dry verge tile system. Is there anything i need to look out for with a dry verge system, or is it a reliable alternative? how much do you think a roofer should be charging to supply + fit dry verge tiles to a gable end of a typical semi?

    Cheers in advance ;)
     
  2. noseall

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    the roofing lathes or battens, on a compo or wet verge, are cut back 50mm or so, from the cloak, so as not to interfere with cement finish.

    on a dry verge system the lathes need to be flush with the cloak.

    if your converting from the former to the latter, then i guess you need to remove the tiles and extend the lathes. quite a job in itself.
     
  3. 3GHOTHEAD

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    Or just screw a batton down the length of the verge fixed in to the ends of the battons.? :idea:
     
  4. noseall

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    aye. ;)
     
  5. peca27

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    So if you screwfix a batten down the length of the verges + then I presume the dry verge tiles are screwed into this batten?

    If so how much do you think a roofer should be qouting for a typical gable end of a semi?
     
  6. noseall

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    depends on access, scaffolding etc.

    also, i know it's unusual for a roofer to lessen the batten gauge and fix an extra row of tiles in (tight wads), but this can have a detrimental effect when fitting dry verge.

    on a small roof at my own house i set the gauge at about 240mm ish,(as opposed to 310mm) and the dry verge would not work. :rolleyes:
     
  7. softlad1971

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    Marley do a refurb kit that allows you to extend the battens with metal straps if they are too short. Have a look at the marley website.
     
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  8. peca27

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    Cheers for advice so far ;)

    just spoke to a roofer, he's saying the refurb kits are useless long term........the best thing to do is lift all the gable end tiles, extend the battens, fix tiles back down + then fix the dry verge plastic tiles onto the new extended battens. He's saying if there's 14 rows of tiles either side of gable then i'm looking at £300ish..............do you think that's reasonable?
     
  9. Roofer

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    I think that's very reasonable.

    Make sure that when he extends the battens he doesn't just put little pieces on the end but cuts back the existing so that the new lengths go over 2 (or preferably 3) rafters.
     
  10. peca27

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    I've now been told by the roofer........

    'As you've got double roman concrete tiles, and the fact that i've got the curve of the tile right at the edge (and not the flat part of the tileat the edge) it isn't possible to fix a dry verge system onto it.......therefore only option is to concrete it again.........looking at £220 :eek: :eek: '

    What do you think?
     
  11. Roofer

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    Different manufacturers, eg Redland, Marley etc, have different Dry Verge systems and without seeing your roof it is impossible to comment whether your roofer is right or wrong.

    However it can be said that if your tiles have been cut down, ie they are not full tiles, then the installation of Dry Verge is difficult if not impossible.
     
  12. Mw Roofline

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    Tbh, I have never rated dry verge. There is a universal verge on the market that fits all type of tiles.

    You can't beat a proper mix of sand and cement with a plasticiser/pva mixed for ages like chocolate mousse. Dig out all the old stuff, blast it in, job done.
     
  13. annmarieb

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    A builder has come to re do a very badly fitted dry fix edging on my roof and has not extended the battons telling me (a woman) that it was ok to fasten a strip of wood onto the existing battons and then fastening the edging onto this, he has taken out all the old cement and said there was no need for new cement to be added telling me that it would not be necessary as the edging would be waterproof. the whole job cost £450, am I being ripped off?
     
  14. SASroofer

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    Well I thought £300 was bloody cheap, unless it was just a labour price.
     
  15. annmarieb

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    the price was £450 for labout and a strip of wood. He also took out all the old masonery and told me that it wasnt needed that the plastic edging strips would revent rain coming in.
     

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