Is it easy enough to install this split a/c unit ?

[MoonMan2]

Am seriously considering getting a split a/c unit installed.

According to this website these can be installed by a reasonably completent DIY'er

http://www.dry-it-out.com/ECO1206SQ

Any thoughts?

 

[SimonH2]

Looks simple enough.
Possibly the hardest part will be getting the pipework to look neat given that you have a fixed length - so will have to "lose" some length without screwing it up into a ball (which would kink the pipes).

 

[winston1]

Why on earth do you want an air con, we only get 3 says of summer?

 

[RF Lighting]

I've had it a few years, and on the odd occasion it is hot enough to use it, it's an absoloute god send.

I put it on for two or three hours before bed time, and you've got a lovely cool not clammy bedroom all night long for a great sleep.

 

[SimonH2]

Why on earth do you want an air con, we only get 3 says of summer?

That's the sort of answer you get from someone who's never had it.

I recall many years ago retrofitting air con to my Discovery (using parts taken off another). Someone in the motor club said pretty much the same thing - it's a waste of space in our climate, blah, blah. Couple of years later he bought a new car that happened to have air con installed - and suddenly he forgot about all these digs he'd had at me and declared it to be the best thing he'd ever had

It doesn't need to be a roasting hot day for it to be of benefit.

 

[MoonMan2]

Thanks guys, though I would rather this thread didn't turn into a debate about the benefits of air con.

I am especially interested if anyone has installed a system like this. It doesn't look to me as if the pipes are copper - is it a flexible material that would be very difficult to kink?

I would want the internal and external unit almost back to back to each other. That would mean the 4m of "umbilical chord" between the units would have to fall into the air cavity between the outer brick wall and grey insulation bricks.

Also am a little concened that the hole needs to be 10cm through the house to ensure "enough [space] to pass the quick coupling connector at the end of the umbilical". I understand that with conventional a/c units it's only a 6.5cm hole.

 

[Lectrician]

If you are making a hole through the wall, 100mm against 65mm is not much! A 100mm core cutter is more common than a 65mm too.

The hole needs to be larger as the valves etc are already terminated to the pipework, so need to be passed through with it. I doubt you will find room in the cavity for the pipe - It would be too steep a turn to get down into the cavity IMO. You should also not be putting things in the cavity which can then act like a bridge.

 

[bernardgreen]

The quick fix couplings need to be kept completely free of dust until coupled. Tape tough plastic bags over them before drilling any holes and keep it on until you are ready to couple the units together.

 

[SimonH2]

It doesn't look to me as if the pipes are copper - is it a flexible material that would be very difficult to kink?

It's looks like they are flexible pipes. These will still kink if you bend them too tightly.
It may be worth contacting the manufacturer to see what the minimum bend radius is on them.

I would want the internal and external unit almost back to back to each other. That would mean the 4m of "umbilical chord" between the units would have to fall into the air cavity between the outer brick wall and grey insulation bricks.

I think you'll need to coil the "cord" up carefully alongside the outdoor unit - or perhaps behind it as long as you don't obstruct airflow.

Also am a little concened that the hole needs to be 10cm through the house to ensure "enough [space] to pass the quick coupling connector at the end of the umbilical". I understand that with conventional a/c units it's only a 6.5cm hole.

That's the downside of this sort of setup - you need a hole big enough for the "multiplug". As you say, an "on site commissioned" system would need a smaller hole (IMO 65mm is larger than needed but it depends on several factors) as you only ned to be able to thread unterminated pipes and cables through.

What you can do is partially refill the holes once you have the pipe assembly through. But don't go wild as you'd ned to remove the filler blocks if you take the system out.

 

[MoonMan2]

Got an email reply from the company selling this unit, they say what you said SimonH2 that "chord must not go into the cavity". I don't like the idea of wrapping the extra chord behind external unit, concerned it would flap about in wind and be rather unsightly. So think it maybe better to run the extra chord for as long as it needs to go round the side of the building to keep it straight.

Next question:

Where is it best to put the external unit. Is it better to have it wall mounted or better to have it on top of a slab on the ground. On the ground, would it be affected by deep snow or insects? These external units are 40-50Kg - very very heavy!!! Would be much easier to leave on ground.

 

[SimonH2]

Got an email reply from the company selling this unit, they say what you said SimonH2 that "chord must not go into the cavity". I don't like the idea of wrapping the extra chord behind external unit, concerned it would flap about in wind

That's just a matter of securing it properly

and be rather unsightly.

Though that's a matter of aesthetics.

Where is it best to put the external unit. Is it better to have it wall mounted or better to have it on top of a slab on the ground. On the ground, would it be affected by deep snow or insects? These external units are 40-50Kg - very very heavy!!! Would be much easier to leave on ground.

There is no right answer - only what's best for a specific installation.
Sat on the ground tends to be less obtrusive, but takes up ground space. Wall mounted (above head height) takes up no space. High up makes servicing harder, low down means it tends to pick up detritus (leaves etc) more readily. Also, low down make it vulnerable to knocks - someone leaning on the condenser panel can flatten over the fins and obstruct airflow (there are actually combs made just for dealing with this sort of thing !).

One big consideration is that there MUST be free airflow around it. If airflow is restricted then performance/efficiency suffers. When cooling, it would mean the air gets warmer and the unit needs to pump against a higher temperature difference. Ditto when heating, you'd get a pool of cold air round the unit. Also, if it's a little "suntrap" corner, then on those hot days when you need it, the unit is disadvantaged by the sun heated air it has to work in.
Sat on the ground, SWMBO may decide to hide the unsightly object with some pretty plants and block the airflow off

 

[MoonMan2]

Got the supplier to send me the installation manual for this unit.

Something is concerning me. It says that the internal unit must be at least 1m away from the tv. Where my proposed a/c unit would go, it is only half a meter from the tv. It also says the external unit should be at least 3m from tv.

How much notice should one take of these warnings?

Are air con units likely to interfere with tv signal?

 

[SimonH2]

Probably "covering their backsides" but it does seem rather odd. I suspect the issue is the inverter drive for the compressor - high power switching power supply in effect which would be capable of producing a lot of high frequency interference. The warning does sound like something of an admission of guilt - it really shouldn't be producing that level of noise.

In practice (especially if you have a good signal) it's not likely to be an issue, but if it's a "poor quality" TV and/or you have a poor signal then it could be a problem.

There's also a possibility of it being magnetic - but that wouldn't affect a flat panel TV.

 

[MoonMan2]

This is the picture from the manual I am referring to.

Untitled

• MoonMan2
• 26 Jan 2014
• 1

I have re-measured and realised I could get away with 85cm between tv and internal unit.


A bit confused about the outdoor unit and antenna, do they mean a normal tv aerial that is normally on the roof or the aerial connection at the back of the tv?

 

[SimonH2]

Yes, I do think they mean the antenna (aerial). While most of us are used to the aerial on the roof, that/s not the case for everyone.

But, that image really bothers me - it's clear that they have no confidence in their product if it can't even be close to fluorescent lights and know that it spews out a lot of interference. I have to wonder if it genuinely meets EU EMC* emissions limits - rather than just having had a CE sticker put on it and hope no-one asks.

* ElectroMagnetic Compatibility