Just a few questions about drainage for surface water.

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:confused:

Hi

Just a few questions about drainage for surface water.

My drive has been getting progressively worse over the years from flooding.

Could be 2 inches deep at its worst over a large area.

The soak away is now blocked, a power washer used to help clear it, but it's had it,
completely blocked.

At the end of the drive is a man hole cover, and near to that "two open drains".
One from the kitchen sink, the other from a gutter down pipe.

The driveway is solid concrete (lots of stones in mix). I know how deep the concrete is
as I had to cut in to it a few years ago at the edge - but I can't remember exactly how
thick, but its thick and takes a huge Calor Gas delivery lorry 3 times a year.

It seems when the drive was originally laid it was with fall/run off towards the property
and not towards the lawn that runs alongside. Granted the soak away did use to cope.
But it now it just pools at end of the drive with no outlet.

What I'm thinking/would like to do is cut a channel around 10 metres in length - starting
from original manhole cover, then around half way along install one "Courtyard Gully",
then at end of 10 meter run fit another "Courtyard Gully".

What I hope is possible is to run 110 PVC pipe into original manhole/drain, or pick up pipe
running from "gutter" gully - and join new 110mm to this - this would save installing a
new drain if that is required.

I haven't lifted drain/man hole cover yet - just trying to get some possible ideas of what
to do.

MY QUESTIONS

1) Am I right in saying that because it is ground/rain water the "Courtyard Gully" can
be an UNTRAPPED INSTALLATION?

2) What is the minimum depth that the 110mm pipe work can be laid OR is this determined
by depth of actual gully (courtyard gully as it is a drive)?


3) Is it permissible to locate pipe running from "gutter gully" - and join new pipe to this old using

110mm BT 45° Double Socket Swept Junction

OR

110mm BT 87.5° Double Socket Swept Junction

This would save installing a new drain if that is required (if there are not any spare outlet holes).

I've read you have to inform council.


Any help or advice welcome.

Many thanks in advance.

Stephen
 
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It is not very clear to me what you are planning to do.

But any connection to a public drain should have a water trap to prevent smells.

Isn't digging/clearing the soakaway the easiest solution?

Tony
 
For a start what does the gutter gulley connect to?

Rather than faff about with bends into the existing pipe work that once buried are innaccesible, really you should replace the gulley with a roddable bottle gulley with extra knockouts to attach your new channel drain into the side of.

Like a wavin 4d900.

No need to trap it on the new channel side as the bottle gulley will form a water seal from the foul sewer and the new channel will only have surface water.

Whether you are legally allowed to bung all this surface water into a combined system is another matter.
 

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