Laying pavers over concrete

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Dry mortar mix - mix it up straight from the bags (sharp sand and cement) on a hard area such as your existing concrete(unless you hire a mixer which may be wise given the amounts required), and spread it without added water. Ideally, you should put a couple of timbers along each edge of the run and use a plank with the corners cut off to the required depth of paver to slide along this "tramline" to help get it flat and smooth and to the required level. If you hire a vibrating plate, run this over the whole area again and apply more dry mix, again scraping it perfectly flat. This process will mean that the dry-mix area is already highly unlikely to move or give way.

Put the pavers on top and tap them down (turn you T-shape plank over) to ensure that they are in place and pour in the gravel. Either wait for rain or finely drizzle a hose over the area and leave for a couple of days. (you can always scrape away some of the gravel to check that this is now solid)

As for the drive-on/off edge at the pavement, not sure about those bevelled edge pavers. - think they might give way under the "shock" of sudden weight of car, if you know what I mean, with subsequent pavers following suit.

Would still go for a gentle slop of pavers set at same height as the pavement.
dex i never seen so much crap advice for laying brick pavers in my life , you completely utterly wrong
 
Is there some confusion over the use of the word "pavers"? Block paving is made of "paviours". Patio paving is made of slabs.

OP - which do you mean (or am I being dense? - quite poss!)
 
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We lay narrow (shallow fall) pathways on a sharp sand mortar mix as this alleviates the need for a wacker.

Wacking (compacting) pathways can be unpredictable and lead to slight dips.

Garage forecourts are block paved over a concrete base.
 

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