Lever on a Honeywell 2 port valve

[turboyoshi]

I have a Honeywell 2 port valve (which looks like a silver box) which is situated close to my boiler. This valve has a small lever at the bottom of it. What I want to know is does this lever move when the valve is in operation? Im sure it used to but at the moment it does not....

...which leads me on to why I've posted this topic. When I put the hot water on, the boiler (a 10 year old baxi solo) will run for about 10 mins before the overheat light comes on, followed by banging in the pipes. I basically want to know whether the 2 port valve may be malfunctioning, causing this problem. I had a BG engineer in but all I got from him was "flush the system" so I want to do some detective work myself.

Hope someone can help.

 

[dextrous]

Can answer the first question - nope it doesn't move, but when the valve is open, you can freely move it with your finger with no resistance - it will pull back into the closed position when instructed to do so by the timer/programmer.

If you want to check whether this is causing the problem, you can slide it (with a little bit of force) into the open position and "hook" it into permanently open. At least then you'll be able to rule this in, or out, of your diagnostics.

 

[turboyoshi]

Cheers for the quick reply dextrous!

I need some clarification regarding your posting.

but when the valve is open, you can freely move it with your finger with no resistance - it will pull back into the closed position when instructed to do so by the timer/programmer.

So if I turn the hot water on, do you recommend me moving the lever? You say that it will pull back into the closed position when instructed by the timer/programmer but how do I know when it is instructed to do so?

Also regarding:

you can slide it (with a little bit of force) into the open position and "hook" it into permanently open. At least then you'll be able to rule this in, or out, of your diagnostics.

If I slide it so that its hooked permanently open will the timer/programmer be able to close it when it needs to? I ask this as I don't want to damage my system (even though it is in a bad way!) when doing my (layman) diagnostic tests!

 

[dextrous]

If you turn the hot water on and the programmer instructs the valve to open, then you should feel the lever will move freely (try to move it before you turn the programmer to the on position - you will feel some resistance, to compare the difference).

Hooking the valve to being permanently open will not damage anything - it simply prevents a spring from pulling the valve back to the closed position. This means that water should be able to freely pump around the system. When you have finished your diagnostics, just unhook it manually and it will either remain open, or automatically close, depending on what the programmer is instructing it to do.

 

[turboyoshi]

Ok, I'll try moving the lever as per your instructions tomorrow.

I suppose my only question now is, after following your instructions how will I know if the valve is broken / needs replacing?

Also, as before I appreciate the quick response. You're a credit to this website!

 

[dextrous]

I'm assuming that you've got no hot water due to the overheat malfunction - in which case there's nothing to stop you hooking the valve open permanently if this resolves the banging (and simultaneously getting you some hot water) until we determine why the valve isn't opening. IF it is a faulty valve, these aren't difficult to replace.

If, when the programmer is attempting to open the valve, the lever continues to feel stiff, then the valve is most likely to be faulty as it is not opening.

 

[turboyoshi]

I;m assuming that you've got no hot water due to the overheat malfunction - in which case there's nothing to stop you hooking the valve open permanently if this resolves tha banging until we determine why the valve isn't opening. IF it is a faulty valve, these aren't difficult to replace.

Correct. I've not really got access to hot water. I say not really, as the boiler will run for ~10 mins, then the overheat light will come on, and then banging will occur in the pipes. This banging occurs due to air in the pipes. If I goto the loft and bleed the top-most valve the banging will go away. I can then use the HW again but I end up having the same problem.

If I can leave the valve open, what's the point in having it?

I'll update you on my progress once I've experimented tomorrow.

 

[dextrous]

The valve is there to prevent hot water convecting itself around the system, thus wasting energy.
Gowever, you have just added:
"This banging occurs due to air in the pipes. If I goto the loft and bleed the top-most valve the banging will go away. I can then use the HW again but I end up having the same problem."
which neds a bit more clarification - such as what top-most valve in the loft?