Light installation for low energy spots

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We are currently having the entire house re-wired and as part of that having downlights in the kitchen and dining area. What is being installed is line voltage GU10 mounts with energy efficient downlights - likely LEDs drawing around 3-4W each. The problem is that my electrician is sizing the circuit as if each spot is 50W as I could in theory install normal halogen bulbs instead. This leads to issues with having to separate the lights into multiple circuits due to number of what is potentially 50W spots and problems with having to separate the light switches for various lighting points.

Is there a way to work around this and not break regulation? We are having around 30 spots altogether and it means that what is actually going to draw around 120W will be sized as if its 1500W (without any other lights).
 
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Funnily enough I did ask electrician if there are any fittings like that. He said no.
 
He's wrong.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...hts_Index/Downlights_Energy_Saving/index.html

None of these fittings will take halogen lamps.

images


As you can just see in this picture low energy lamps have little dimples cut out of their rim. Low energy down lights have matching sticky out bits that prevent you putting in a halogen lamp.
And besides, most low energy downlights are made from plastic and would melt if you fitted a halogen lamp in them.
 
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The problem is that my electrician is sizing the circuit as if each spot is 50W as I could in theory install normal halogen bulbs instead.

I thought lighting points had to be sized at 100W minimum, or actual load if greater.

I know it's unlikely all those downlighters would ever be replaced with 100W GLS (especially now we can't get 100W GLS ...) but still.
 
The problem is that my electrician is sizing the circuit as if each spot is 50W as I could in theory install normal halogen bulbs instead.

I thought lighting points had to be sized at 100W minimum, or actual load if greater.

I know it's unlikely all those downlighters would ever be replaced with 100W GLS (especially now we can't get 100W GLS ...) but still.

You are probably right - he was just probably giving me an example that I could put in a 50W halogen and overload it. Its still the same problem.
 
He's wrong.


As you can just see in this picture low energy lamps have little dimples cut out of their rim. Low energy down lights have matching sticky out bits that prevent you putting in a halogen lamp.
And besides, most low energy downlights are made from plastic and would melt if you fitted a halogen lamp in them.

Thanks for that. Does the wiring regulation accept that and provide specific exception or still expect to provide 100 (or 50W) per light? Also, noticed that those are 12V lights? Not to start another topic, but I didn't see any advantage in having those over 240V other than having to replace transformers as required.

What sort of mount are these? Still GU10?
 
Thanks very much for all the replies. Steve I can't access that page - says I need to register and be a customer first (which seems a lot of hassle).

With these sort of modern LEDs, are there any rules as to how far apart do you space them to get a decent light - both in kitchen and in general living/dining area? I really haven't a clue how to design lighting in the kitchen and all our electrician can say is 'its up to you'.

In terms of space, we are talking about a kitchen size of about 5.5x3.5m and dining/general room sized about 6.5x3.5m.

Many thanks. :cool:
 
For halogen, a couple of foot spacing. For LED 18 inch max. For CFLs maybe 30 inch. PL downlights 4-6 foot.

All spacings depend on ceiling height and wattage.
 

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