Longer cable for Lawn Mower

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by tuggy12, 6 Jul 2009.

  1. tuggy12

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    Hello,

    I want to put a longer cable on my new Bosch 34GC lawn mower and
    I have sourced the correct cable: orange 2 core 0.75mm squared.

    The terminal block in the starting switch on the mower handle has push fit electrical connections and I'm wondering whether it is possible to remove the original wires and insert the new wires?

    Or will it be better to buy a new switch.

    Thanks.
     
  2. Richard C

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    Why mess about changing the manufacturer’s lead :confused: Just use an extension reel!
     
  3. rebuke

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    While I agree with Richard C - an extension reel would be much easier, if you post a pic of the "push fit electrical connections", I'm sure people will be able to tell you if the wires can be removed (and if so how) - without a pic it's very hard to say, as there are a huge variety of different connector types...
     
  4. tuggy12

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    My previous lawn mower had a 14m lead and from two external wall mounted Masterseal RCD sockets I could reach all parts of my garden without an extension lead.
    The new lawnmower has only a 12m lead, so to me a neater solution is to just replace it with a 14m lead rather than having to mess around with a short extension.
     
  5. tuggy12

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    Thanks, I'll try to get a close up photo and post back.
     
  6. Inky Pete

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  7. tuggy12

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    Here's the photos:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. tuggy12

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  9. ban-all-sheds

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    Don't try too hard to remove the cable - if those push-fit terminals aren't designed to be released you might damage them by pulling the conductors out..
     
  10. ericmark

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    I think the connector block[​IMG] is likely the best idea as if you pull too hard rather than damage any plug or socket it will just pull out this is what I use.

    The switch you show does not seem to have any release slots if you look at this push fit connector block [​IMG] you will note above each round hole there is a oblong hole which allows you to push in a screw driver to release cable.

    Although yours does show a second set of holes I would think they are just a repeat of first set and should the cable get damaged near to the switch which is common then it would allow you to replace cable once. But also likely it would need ferrules or the ends of the cable tinning in order to be able to fit a flex in the holes.

    So I would advise not to touch them.
     
  11. Lectrician

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    I too concur with fitting the rubber cable coupler/plug/socket arrangement. It is designed for the purpose, and also makes coiling the lead back up far easier. I don't know why lawn mowers no longer come with them as standard.
     
  12. bernardgreen

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    The push in terminal in the picture is a "use once" connector. Using a thin pointed tool to press the spring back will release the wire if it has to be removed. The other holes are likely but not certain to be for a replacment cable. It may however be for a different gauge of wire at manufacture.

    Remove the wire means bending the contact and the spring may go past it's elastic limit and remain bent out of shape meaning a poor contact on the new wire.


    The orange two pin snatch plug is a good option when close to the mower. It means the length of cable fitted to the mover will be too short to get under the mower and be cut. And provides a quick reasonably safe way to remove power from a damaged mower.

    I would however use a three pin connector and three core lead to enable the extension lead to be also used with power tools and other equipment that requires an earth.
     
  13. tuggy12

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    Many thanks for all the helpful and constructive comments.

    After digesting all the comments and advice, I have decided not to touch the wiring in the switch and will cut the existing cable about 18" from the switch and then add the new extended cable using the orange rubber plug connector.

    As Lectrician said, I'm sure this is how early electric lawn mowers were supplied. The plug connector was probably removed as a cost cutting measure, or was the HSE resposible!
     

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