Making timber board

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Is it possible to make your own timber board by gluing strips of timber together ? I'm looking for something like this: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-General-Purpose-Timberboard-18x300x1750mm/p/115436

I have a load of 70 x 20mm PAR timber left over from another job and I'd like to make it into a number of shelves 700mm wide by 490mm deep (i.e. glue seven lengths together edge on).

I was thinking about using dowels to secure them together but I can borrow a biscuit cutter if necessary. The finished shelves will be sanded and varnished.

Is this possible ?

Thank you
 
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standard practice really
i assume you are fully supporting the ends ??
 
Thanks for your reply - yes the shelves will be in a built in cupboard and supported by battens on both sides and along the back.

I will fix another piece of timber edge ways along the front to hide the battens and make the shelves look thicker if that makes sense!

Will dowels be ok or would I be better off with biscuit joints ?

The timber has been indoors for a few months so it should be fairly dry and hopefully won't cup.

I will be clamping the timber together until the glue drys - is there anything else I need to consider ?

Thanks again
 
alternate the timbers growth ring up then down
to be honest unless you are point loading the shelves glue and clamp will be fine
if you glue a bit on the front face or 2x1 underneath and 2x1" for all the battons you then have a flat base to fit ply underneath
do you have a router??
 
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Sorry, are you saying I don't need biscuits or dowels - just glue the timber together ?

I know what you mean - so the plywood makes the shelf into a "box" with the fixings hidden inside

Yes I have a router

Thanks for your help
 
the way i would tackle this job is a 12x12 rebate under the front edge to rebate 12mm ply underneath so you have no exposed front edge on the ply
so you would have on the front the baton thickness plus the rebate so if your batons are 44mm you need 56mm timber if under the front edge or if facing the front assuming 20mm thick is 76mm

you can use biscuits or dowels but as you are only giving a bit off support to the edge not nessisery
yes dowels and buscuits are stronger but not nesisery in this instance indeed you could just pin the front edge in and leave the planks loose behind as this would be strong enough for this task but not as nice less finished
 
One thing about using biscuits is that it gives location to the joint. Saves the pieces slipping around on the glue when you are trying to cramp it all up. Not a problem with one joint, but six might be a bit of a juggling act without biscuits or whatever.
 
As Dave said, dowels or biscuits are just to locate the joints.

If you have access to a thicknesser or planer, you can just glue+clamp and just even out the surface afterwards, less time consuming, bit more wasteful of material.
 
Thanks for your help.

I'll give it a go and post some pics when it's finished!
 

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