Mitre Saw Blade

[RussellS]

Hi, I am looking for a fine toothed blade for my sliding mitre saw and came accross this one for sale on eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160466402691&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

As you can see it is a Piranha blade but there is no mention of Black and Decker on the labelling. The logo and packaging look the same as the B&D Piranha blades but without the B&D part.

Do you think this is actually a B&D part or not.


Thanks

Russell

 

[gregers]

dunno?
when expanding the pic it says it fits b&d and metabo,

would a b&d item say it would fit b&d machine?or would it say it fits others?

 

[big-all]

fitters world are extremly good but at the min the best they have is 40 tooth
http://www.fittersworld.co.uk/

 

[RussellS]

Thanks for that.

With respect to the Piranha blade, I've seen some B&D Piranha blades and the packaging is exactly the same as the one I posted except that it has "Black & Decker" written below the Piranha logo. So perhaps the eBay one I linked to were older ones before they put the B&D logo on them. I have now ordered one of them anyway.

I wish I'd found that link to Fitters World earlier as they seem to have a lot of good stuff there at reasonable prices. I'm also after a 254mm (30mm bore) blade for my table saw. I am going to be fitting a kitchen soon and need to cut about 2 inches off the back of a tall larder unit and the colour matched end panel. So, I want a blade that will not chip the surface and was wondering if this one would suffice http://kitchenfitterstools.co.uk/in...oducts_id=57&zenid=5o0d4cl5aqrbuhjtibk0oljjs4 or would I need an even finer blade.


Many thanks

Russell

 

[big-all]

you want a circular saw rather than a table saw for cutting units to height
not easy to hold a long bit off board overhanging the side even iff fully supported the drag will pull away fron the fence

if you worried about chipping cut in pairs with the visible faces together and cut from front to back
or cover with a sacraficial bit off 6mm mdf again cut front to back

 

[RussellS]

I'm not reducing it height wise but depth wise. This is because the larder unit is going next to a tall oven housing but the wall steps out a couple of inches. So, in order to get the fronts to line up, I need to reduce the depth of the larder unit by cutting 2 inches from the back.

 

[big-all]

you are doing it before assembling the unit!!!
how do you plan on reconstructing the corner!!

 

[RussellS]

Ah, well I'm not sure yet. The kitchen hasn't been delivered yet so I'll see what the construction is like and then determine how to replace the corner joints.

Obviously, I will be cutting it down to size before construction. Assuming the existing corner assembly fixings are cut off then there are plenty of options to fabricate new fixings. However, I will wait until I've got the unit to look at to select the best method.

Anyway, back to my saw blade. Do you thing that the 64 teeth blade will be fine enough for cutting the side panels down length ways without chipping. The Fitters World website says that it is their most popular saw blade so I'm assuming that it is what most professional fitters would use.

I like your idea of cutting the two sides together (face to face), I hadn't thought of that.


Thaks for your input

Russell

 

[big-all]

yes 64 will be fine but
i realy emplore you to make shure you have at least 2ft support in front off the blade and six foor behind plus enoug support at the side
remember you will need around 20 foot 'the wood length plus your body before the saw and the the full length after the table

your offcut will be reusable slot and all to support the back
for arguments sake the cut out is say 3x2" 2" from the back
assuming the side is partly visible
lets assume your saw cut is 3.2mm and your material is 15mm

cut your offcut to fit inside the cabinet parralel to the origional position but 3 inches across you will have to remove 12mm from the cut edge
you now need to cut a 3" strip [15mm board]the same length as your off cut to attach to the inside off the cut side and cover the front off your repositioned side peice
if you cut the 3" strip from a edged board there will be no cut edges visible from the sides or front

 

[RussellS]

Thanks for the advice. Don't worry, I always make sure that the workpiece is well supported all round.

I don't quite understand what you are trying to get across about the cut off piece. Here is a diagram of the kitchen and the layout of the kitchen units showing the larder unit that will require cutting down.

Could you explain a little more what you mean about the cut off piece.

Thanks

 

[big-all]

dosnt apply i assumed a part width reduction [a cube out off the corner]

before you cut off your 2" or what ever it is
level and and fit in position take note off the overlap on the front add 10mm and remove that amount [assuming up to 5mm back panel thickness]

if you just measure the last cabinet to wall you will miss any bit off the wall thats further forward

you can then either glue and pin the back on or rebate glue and pin the back on

 

[RussellS]

Thanks very much for your advice, I shall take it all on board.

I shall probably rebate the back and then glue & pin the back panel. However, until I've actually got the kitchen units and I can see their construction it is difficult to know exactly what I will do.

Also, I have now ordered the 64t saw blade for my table saw and also the Piranha one for the mitre saw. So I should be ready for cutting the mitre joints on the cornice/pelmets.


Anyway, thanks again


Russell