You could massively improve the ventilation, warmth and comfort of your home by installing a multi-fuel stove. This will heat your lounge lovely and toasty and at the same time suck massive volumes of stale damp air up the flue, ventilating the house in a way that an open window cannot.
Mould/mildew- can't see any now, but can't get rid of smell.
- Thread starter lauralulu
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Hi RigidRaider, We have a multifuel stove, had it fited within a short time of moving in and it's lit for about 8 months of the year - but although I wouldn't be without it, it hasn't really had much of an impact on the musty smell.
Multi fuel stoves, or indeed open fires, allow much air exchange within the building and are therefore good for general ventilation. They will however draw air from the most direct route.
However, they'll only clear any below floor mustiness if they draw their draught from there......
John
However, they'll only clear any below floor mustiness if they draw their draught from there......
John
Sponsored Links
I too have sympathy with the problem and have asked in DIYNOT for advice previously.
Our bungalow had been empty and flooded when a pipe burst. Unfortunately I don't know for how long, and didn't know when I bought.
When we moved in we did some major renovation but in hindsight should have renewed all plaster and maybe even replaced door stencils. We did do some plastering during our renovations when we built new walls / knocked down existing.
Our surveyor found no damp. And neither has a friend who has a damp meter when he has tested (on more that one occasion).
A short while after moving in, the bed in a spare bedroom became mouldy so something must have been damp then. Also we have had signs of mould in 2 bedroom cupboards. But these have long since disappeared and 6 years later we appear to be mould free.
However we still have poor plaster that needs replacing in places and we found that the bottom of a door stencil had rotted when decorating recently.
We still hope / think it is due to the burst pipe but neighbours advise they experience damp and that there is an underground stream near / under the bungalow. We think we have a block and beam floor so this may be a possible cause if there is a problem below?
1 mistake I made was to believe the hype and get cavity wall insulation fitted when we moved in. This has probably not helped as despite using a 'reputable company' the fitter did not sleeve airbricks and in fact sealed them telling us this was the correct thing to do. (I removed the sealant but there is no internal airbrick opposite to 'sleeve to').
I have fitted high power extractor fans in the bathrooms.
Everyone tells us we have a beautiful home but we still wonder whether or not we are storing up problems for the future.
Our bungalow had been empty and flooded when a pipe burst. Unfortunately I don't know for how long, and didn't know when I bought.
When we moved in we did some major renovation but in hindsight should have renewed all plaster and maybe even replaced door stencils. We did do some plastering during our renovations when we built new walls / knocked down existing.
Our surveyor found no damp. And neither has a friend who has a damp meter when he has tested (on more that one occasion).
A short while after moving in, the bed in a spare bedroom became mouldy so something must have been damp then. Also we have had signs of mould in 2 bedroom cupboards. But these have long since disappeared and 6 years later we appear to be mould free.
However we still have poor plaster that needs replacing in places and we found that the bottom of a door stencil had rotted when decorating recently.
We still hope / think it is due to the burst pipe but neighbours advise they experience damp and that there is an underground stream near / under the bungalow. We think we have a block and beam floor so this may be a possible cause if there is a problem below?
1 mistake I made was to believe the hype and get cavity wall insulation fitted when we moved in. This has probably not helped as despite using a 'reputable company' the fitter did not sleeve airbricks and in fact sealed them telling us this was the correct thing to do. (I removed the sealant but there is no internal airbrick opposite to 'sleeve to').
I have fitted high power extractor fans in the bathrooms.
Everyone tells us we have a beautiful home but we still wonder whether or not we are storing up problems for the future.
Sounds worrying. We also have a brook running under our house and beam and block floors over but the house is fantastically dry and warm because the under-floor ventilation is so good. Having an Aga and stoves in two rooms also means the ventilation is good.
I am worried about that cavity wall insulation you had fitted, especially the blocked air bricks. Did it make any real difference to the insulation?
I am worried about that cavity wall insulation you had fitted, especially the blocked air bricks. Did it make any real difference to the insulation?
Hi RigidRaider,
I don't know if the cavity wall insulation made a difference or not as I got it done very soon after moving in. (In the summer)
To be honest I know very little about DIY matters (less then) and the Government keeps telling us to have cavity wall insulation, even subsdising the installation. That's why I did it.
I couldn't find anybody to advise if the insulation was done correctly or not and when I went back to the installers, all they did was send their local expert - the person who installed it!
It's 8 years ago now but as you can imagine the doubt still lingers. I have no idea whether or not I have offset airbricks to under the bungalow and I don't know how to check the type of flooring we have (I'm told it could be a concrete raft and therefore there's no problem). Although we have airbricks on the outside walls, none are visible on the inside.
Thank you for your interest,
Pete
I don't know if the cavity wall insulation made a difference or not as I got it done very soon after moving in. (In the summer)
To be honest I know very little about DIY matters (less then) and the Government keeps telling us to have cavity wall insulation, even subsdising the installation. That's why I did it.
I couldn't find anybody to advise if the insulation was done correctly or not and when I went back to the installers, all they did was send their local expert - the person who installed it!
It's 8 years ago now but as you can imagine the doubt still lingers. I have no idea whether or not I have offset airbricks to under the bungalow and I don't know how to check the type of flooring we have (I'm told it could be a concrete raft and therefore there's no problem). Although we have airbricks on the outside walls, none are visible on the inside.
Thank you for your interest,
Pete
this suggests that you used to have a ventilated cavity. It was popular for a limited time, perhaps in the 1980's, but has since been abandoned and is not necessary. The walls are porous so are able to lose slight dampness when it stops raining, unless you have defects such as leaking gutters or cracked render, which should be repaired anyway. It is correct to seal up this sort of above-the-floor airbrick when CWI is installed, if it does not have a duct to the inside of the house.
If you have no airbricks below floor level, then I hope you have a slab not a void, because a void must be ventilated to remove damp. An experienced local builder will be able to tell.
Thanks John D,
Sorry for the delayed reply.
What you say is reassuring. The bungalow was built in the late 50s / early 60s so I hope it could have been as you say.
I'll try to ask a builder to check the type of floor. Can you advise how would they tell?
From when we moved in I know our living room floor had been skimmed with "concrete", probably when an extension was built. And most other floors are tiled or tiled with carpet on top. So it could be (for us) quite a big thing if he has to dig out the flooring to find out.
Pete
Sorry for the delayed reply.
What you say is reassuring. The bungalow was built in the late 50s / early 60s so I hope it could have been as you say.
I'll try to ask a builder to check the type of floor. Can you advise how would they tell?
From when we moved in I know our living room floor had been skimmed with "concrete", probably when an extension was built. And most other floors are tiled or tiled with carpet on top. So it could be (for us) quite a big thing if he has to dig out the flooring to find out.
Pete
An experienced local builder will have spent 20 or 40 years bashing houses similar to yours, maybe in the same street and to the same design, some of them identical to yours, and doubtlless designed and built by the same local architects, builders and bricklayers. He will probably know without even looking, but if not will know after banging on a few walls and floors and looking round.
Hi John D,
Once again sorry for the delay in the reply.
Unfortunately our bungalow (and the others in the street) are mainly 1 offs.
I think a builder built it to live in and then sold quite quickly after, but this is anecdotal.
A doctor had it before us but it was then empty for over 18 months before we bought in 2005. While it was empty it had a burst pipe for an unknown period of time before being repaired.
I will get someone to check it out but it may be a little while because of some domestic arrangements.
Thank you for your advice,
Pete
Once again sorry for the delay in the reply.
Unfortunately our bungalow (and the others in the street) are mainly 1 offs.
I think a builder built it to live in and then sold quite quickly after, but this is anecdotal.
A doctor had it before us but it was then empty for over 18 months before we bought in 2005. While it was empty it had a burst pipe for an unknown period of time before being repaired.
I will get someone to check it out but it may be a little while because of some domestic arrangements.
Thank you for your advice,
Pete
Hi,
Just an update to give current status.
As suggested I called a local builder. He believes we have a concrete floor not block and beam because:
1). We'd have more airbricks
2). He doesn't think offset airbricks were used in the '50s / '60s
3). The airbricks we have look like they are just to air the cavity.
He is willing to do a physical check from an outside wall but it will be next month at earliest.
He also thinks our problems may be related to the mains leak (over 8 years ago) before we moved in. He suggests that we installed fitted wardrobes, carpets and tiled, thus not letting the place dry out. So I have hired a dehumidifier and it is running flat out in 1 of the rooms with the fitted wardrobe doors removed.
Not sure how long to keep it going for though - you hear that flooded properties take months to dry out - any thoughts anyone?
Thanks again for all the advice. I will post again as things develop.
Just an update to give current status.
As suggested I called a local builder. He believes we have a concrete floor not block and beam because:
1). We'd have more airbricks
2). He doesn't think offset airbricks were used in the '50s / '60s
3). The airbricks we have look like they are just to air the cavity.
He is willing to do a physical check from an outside wall but it will be next month at earliest.
He also thinks our problems may be related to the mains leak (over 8 years ago) before we moved in. He suggests that we installed fitted wardrobes, carpets and tiled, thus not letting the place dry out. So I have hired a dehumidifier and it is running flat out in 1 of the rooms with the fitted wardrobe doors removed.
Not sure how long to keep it going for though - you hear that flooded properties take months to dry out - any thoughts anyone?
Thanks again for all the advice. I will post again as things develop.
shut the doors and windows where the dehumidifier is (otherwise it will try to dehumidify the world) and see if the number of buckets per day declines. Then leave it off for a few days, and see if, when you turn it on again, the room is again wet. if so, it suggests a continuing source of water, such as a leak.
Have you got a water meter, and does the bubble ever stop?
Have you got a water meter, and does the bubble ever stop?
Hello JohnD,
Thank you for the quick reply.
The window and door in the room are closed although we still need to access it sometimes (and will need to empty the dehumidifier too).
Yes we have a water meter but I don't know what you mean by the bubble. The meter has 3 dials on it, none of which are moving now. (No water in use)
My current idea is to run the dehumidiifer for a week, measuring the water output each day. Then try with the door open to see if there is an increase in the water collected (to check if we are causing the water).
Based on your suggestion I'll then switch off for a couple of days and recheck the room.
Thanks again,
Pete
Thank you for the quick reply.
The window and door in the room are closed although we still need to access it sometimes (and will need to empty the dehumidifier too).
Yes we have a water meter but I don't know what you mean by the bubble. The meter has 3 dials on it, none of which are moving now. (No water in use)
My current idea is to run the dehumidiifer for a week, measuring the water output each day. Then try with the door open to see if there is an increase in the water collected (to check if we are causing the water).
Based on your suggestion I'll then switch off for a couple of days and recheck the room.
Thanks again,
Pete
the water meters I have seen have an air bubble in the centre which spins when water is passing through them. Maybe yours doesn't. It might have a red needle on a dial. If not, turn off all your taps (perhaps using a stop-cock in the house, not outside) overnight and see if the meter reading changes at all.
If you meter has a T-handle to turn off the supply, make the house silent and get a young person with good hearing to listen carefully while you turn it on and off. The whisper of a leak is almost inaudible but sometimes you notice when it starts and stop.
If you meter has a T-handle to turn off the supply, make the house silent and get a young person with good hearing to listen carefully while you turn it on and off. The whisper of a leak is almost inaudible but sometimes you notice when it starts and stop.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
