Moving socket

[muh3]

Hi all,

currently debating with my sparky, which way to go.

I need to move a current socket about 500mm along the wall in my utility room to be accessible. The socket will be otherwise behind a washing machine.

Can we just use a flexi outlet, put the flexi cable along the wall in trunking into a new double socket?

Thank you.

 

[securespark]

Is that their suggestion?

Why flex?

Is there going to be a 13A FCU in place of the socket?

A picture would be of great help.

 

[muh3]

Is that their suggestion?
He suggested chasing to the new socket, extend the cables (crimped) and put a new back box and socket in. This is not possible because the walls have been tanked, everything needs to be on the surface and either glued or silicone plugged.

Why flex?
It can be solid, but flex would be easier to put in a glued on trunking.

Is there going to be a 13A FCU in place of the socket?
No, my idea is more having a spur from the existing socket, the washing machine will cover the existing socket and will no longer be accessible (unless the washing machine is moved out, so anything with a fuse is a problem for my liking)

A picture would be of great help.

Thanks

 

[Doggit]

Just because it's been tanked, doesn't mean that you can't chase the wall. Just apply a liquid dpm to the chase, throw on sharp sand before it dries, then use cement to fill the chase.

Other than that, trunking with a solid cable is a better idea than using flexi cable.

 

[muh3]

Hi Doggit, thanks for the help, I should have said the tanking is done with a membrane fitted onto the brick work and plastered with normal plaster. I could possibly still cut through the membrane and use liquid dpm on the area, that is what has been done to the other sockets in the wall before the membrane was fitted.

 

[Doggit]

Nope, under the circumstances don't; if you cut the membrane, you'll end up loosening the plaster in that area , use trunking and solid core wire instead. I don't think self adhesive trunking will hold, so you'll still need to drill though the membrane (for the socket back box as well) but it should be okay for those small areas.

 

[Iggifer]

In the past we've chopped out the sockets/chases as normal, but instead of using screw fixings, some dab adhesive as it starts to go off works just as well as screws and plugs, then fill in what's left with plaster as normal.

We were told by the site manager in no uncertain terms we were not allowed to pierce the tanking for anything, admittedly the rooms in the tanked flat were 3/4 or fully underground

 

[deadshort]

Hi, just use 2.5mm T+E instead of flex and crack on

DS

 

[Echo the husky]

Spacer frames are available to make it easier to get the cable behind the existing socket.