need some help regarding pipework

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Re fitting bathroom and replacing rad with a suitably sized towel rad

It's staying along the same wall as the existing rad was but slight different location

The wall is a timber stud wall so the plan was to bring the pipes up in the wall and run to rad using angled valves

BUT
I have a bit of a problem whilst running the pipework in my head I have seen the stud wall runs parrallel right next to the floor joist. There's maybe 50mm from joist to wall
So I can't lift the board to get access to bring the pipework up

i'm sort of stuck for inspiration on a way around it
There is no chance a can get access from the other room as that has just recently been done and don't fancy making a small job bigger

Advice please
 
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What's the room like below?
Can't you get to it from the ceiling below?
Not the best idea I know but just a thought.
 
I have already thought of that but no access from below

Well I say no access because again most of the house has just been done I think the Mrs would go mad

Here's a picture as you look at it the joist is directly to the left of the pipe

 
What material is on the floor now?

Is the sub flooring the old T&G boards or chipboard panels?

Is the wall open on the bath room side?

Was the C/H installation before your time?

Which direction(s) are the present pipes coming from?

Are the rad stubs coming out of the wall or the floor?

There are ways of cutting a trap in a floor situation such as yours.
 
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I have answered all questions in the quote thanks

What material is on the floor now?

Is the sub flooring the old T&G boards or chipboard panels?
- It's old T&G

Is the wall open on the bath room side?
- That's the bathroom side that's open

Was the C/H installation before your time?
- Just as I moved in 10 years ago


Which direction(s) are the present pipes coming from?
- They are coming from the left (the door as you look at it)


Are the rad stubs coming out of the wall or the floor?
- Those stubs are coming from the floor

There are ways of cutting a trap in a floor situation such as yours.
 
After mulling over the issue can anybody see a problem with cutting a small section on the bottom plate on the stud wall to enable me to cut a small access hole (big enough to get my hand in to do the alteration)

Then brace the floorboards that will be cut spanning across a couple more floorboards and screwed from the top to into bracing piece underneath to secure?

The wall is not bearing any weight I just want to make sure I don't get a floppy bouncy board in the other room where the rest of the board(s) go?
 
What "quote" are you talking about?

There was a delay in my looking at your original post and the posting of my two bits worth. When i read your original post there was no picture.

My last item was not a question it was a definite statement that there are ways to do what you proposed. Careful reading of suggestions will often pay off.
 
What "quote" are you talking about?

There was a delay in my looking at your original post and the posting of my two bits worth. When i read your original post there was no picture.

My last item was not a question it was a definite statement that there are ways to do what you proposed. Careful reading of suggestions will often pay off.

Sorry about that
In your first reply I re quoted in answering what I thought were questions for me to answer like are they chipboard or t&g etc

The picture was added shortly after the op to hopefully give you guys a better idea of my issue

Crossed wires I think
 
The somewhat obvious solution would be to build a new stud wall parallel to the existing exposed one :idea: This would enable easy pipework especially wastepipes for any sink or shower if appropriate together with increase in heat and acoustic insulation being incorporated. Depends on whether you have the room to spare ;)
 
The somewhat obvious solution would be to build a new stud wall parallel to the existing exposed one :idea: This would enable easy pipework especially wastepipes for any sink or shower if appropriate together with increase in heat and acoustic insulation being incorporated. Depends on whether you have the room to spare ;)

I agree would be the best solution however without moving the door then it isn't possible and also the room is only 1.4m wide so unfortunately I have no room to spare and that's without olasterboards and tiles
 
Dextraneous,

"The somewhat obvious solution" that you propose is nothing of the sort to anyone with two cents of plumbing experience.

What, a simple difficulty is encountered so build a new wall?
`
And yet you gave this "obvious solution" with the pic of the exposed partition before you, and no knowledge of the bathroom layout or dimensions?

The skilled worker deals with whats there - and snaking and fixing a bit of pipework, even with a closed partition and tight joisting, is run of the mill to someone who knows what they are doing.

Its no business of mine what the average DIY'er suggests unless they are giving flat out wrong or dangerous info. But i do object to the smug dismissal of all others in a thread.
 
Dextraneous,

"The somewhat obvious solution" that you propose is nothing of the sort to anyone with two cents of plumbing experience.

What, a simple difficulty is encountered so build a new wall?
`
And yet you gave this "obvious solution" with the pic of the exposed partition before you, and no knowledge of the bathroom layout or dimensions?

The skilled worker deals with whats there - and snaking and fixing a bit of pipework, even with a closed partition and tight joisting, is run of the mill to someone who knows what they are doing.

Its no business of mine what the average DIY'er suggests unless they are giving flat out wrong or dangerous info. But i do object to the smug dismissal of all others in a thread.

Thanks ree

Do you have any suggestion as to how I can get around the issue ?
 
I'd use a fein multicut to remove the bottom sole plate. Then remove a section of flooring to make work space.

Then see whats below and what the pipe configuration is and pipe accordingly to the exact wall exit points for the towel rad.
 

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