New architrave and skirting

[chriselevate]

Hi,

This question is related to a plastering question but I thought I'd ask it in here as it's got quit a lot of joinery related questions in it.

I've had a couple of rooms plastered (by a recommended plasterer) but they have been done badly and I'm considering getting them redone as I'm irritated by the finish.

By getting them redone it will put much thickness on my architrave and skirting so I think I'd be better off redoing them at this point. The skirting and architraves are fairly old and warn too so nice clean and fresh woodwork would make me feel happier with the job too.

I've fitted new woodwork before and my skills are pretty good (I've been told lol) but they aren't perfect so I wondered if you could answer me the following questions.

My main questions are as follows...
1. Would you use MDF (the already primed stuff) or better to use wood? (They are going to be painted in white satin wood by the way).
2. Skirting that has two profiles really annoys me as it is usual fragile and bows along the edge as the wood has lost its strength due to the second profile. Can you get real wood without a profile on the back? What profiles would you suggest are modern, simple and timeless?
3. Would you recommend fitting the skirting and architrave using mechanical fixings or a glue (no nails etc)? (The rooms in question have solid walls).
4. Would you fit skirting and architrave before plastering? I'm guessing so as the plasterer then has an edge to work up to.
5. Is it essential to scribe internal joins and put a false miter joint on top or does a 45 degree internal miter work just as good?

Thanks for your help with this.

 

[foxhole]

Hi,

This question is related to a plastering question but I thought I'd ask it in here as it's got quit a lot of joinery related questions in it.

I've had a couple of rooms plastered (by a recommended plasterer) but they have been done badly and I'm considering getting them redone as I'm irritated by the finish.

By getting them redone it will put much thickness on my architrave and skirting so I think I'd be better off redoing them at this point. The skirting and architraves are fairly old and warn too so nice clean and fresh woodwork would make me feel happier with the job too.

I've fitted new woodwork before and my skills are pretty good (I've been told lol) but they aren't perfect so I wondered if you could answer me the following questions.

My main questions are as follows...
1. Would you use MDF (the already primed stuff) or better to use wood? (They are going to be painted in white satin wood by the way).
Less warping and twisting with mdf and cheaper.
2. Skirting that has two profiles really annoys me as it is usual fragile and bows along the edge as the wood has lost its strength due to the second profile. Can you get real wood without a profile on the back? What profiles would you suggest are modern, simple and timeless?
Twin profile makes it cheaper, available as a single but mdf again cheaper.
3. Would you recommend fitting the skirting and architrave using mechanical fixings or a glue (no nails etc)? (The rooms in question have solid walls).Nails for architrave , glue and/or screws for skirting.
4. Would you fit skirting and architrave before plastering? I'm guessing so as the plasterer then has an edge to work up to.
No both fit over the new plaster [and would be damaged if already fitted]
5. Is it essential to scribe internal joins and put a false miter joint on top or does a 45 degree internal miter work just as good?
Scribe internal to avoid gaps, ''false miter joint on top'' whatever for?
Thanks for your help with this.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks for that. Please you advise me on a couple of things that are concerning me...

1. Any advice on removing the old skirting and architrave and making the least mess/damage possible?
2. As it's already been over skimmed do you think it'll be necessary to boost the architrave and skirting up higher using something under them to pack them up? Any suggestions here?
3. Any suggestions on the best profile to allow the new skim to sit nicely on the edge of the new skirting and architrave?

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

1. Would you use MDF (the already primed stuff) or better to use wood? (They are going to be painted in white satin wood by the way).

Yes. When painted they always finish much better than solid wood

2. Skirting that has two profiles really annoys me as it is usual fragile and bows along the edge as the wood has lost its strength due to the second profile. Can you get real wood without a profile on the back? What profiles would you suggest are modern, simple and timeless?

Yes, but it can take some finding. I'd look for a Victorian or traditional torus rather than a modern one. As stated above MDF is generally single profile

3. Would you recommend fitting the skirting and architrave using mechanical fixings or a glue (no nails etc)? (The rooms in question have solid walls).

You use grip adhesive to fix the skirtings and nail in place with 16 gauge (second fix) brads or panel pins - the pins are only there to hold the kirting in place whilst the grip adhesive goes off (6 to 12 hours, depending on type). Architraves are pinned/nailed only. I add some PVA on the mitres, too

4. Would you fit skirting and architrave before plastering? I'm guessing so as the plasterer then has an edge to work up to.

Absolutely NOT! The plasterer is far better off having a clear run at it. You will probably have to knock off some nibs or snots he leaves (at the bottoms of the wall) which sit proud where the skirting will go - I do this with a hammer and a bolster or flooring chisel before I start skirting-out a room - and I sweep up before getting on my knees!

5. Is it essential to scribe internal joins and put a false miter joint on top or does a 45 degree internal miter work just as good?

It is essential to scribe internals, even on MDF IMHO. Mitres only look good if the angles are spot on, and you cannot guarantee getting 90° corners in any building in any case

Sorry if that repeats much of waht was stated above

11. Any advice on removing the old skirting and architrave and making the least mess/damage possible?

Use a vacuum. Sheet over carpets (decorators dust sheets or Roll'n'Stroll protector)

12. As it's already been over skimmed do you think it'll be necessary to boost the architrave and skirting up higher using something under them to pack them up? Any suggestions here?

Probably. The alternative might be to pencil mark where the architraves sit on the plaster, score the line with a Stanley knife and thin down the plasterwork between the line and the door casing (old chisel, Surform, etc), i.e. where the architrave will go. The joint should be caulked in any case. It might also be worth considering plinth blocks at the bottom of the architrave legs to help disguise the fact that the architraves are sitting slightly shy (below the level of) of the skirtings.

3. Any suggestions on the best profile to allow the new skim to sit nicely on the edge of the new skirting and architrave?

Your architraves should echo the skirting moulding, really, othersise it cab be overwhelming or sometimes just plain odd

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks for getting back to me and your advice. I agree with he MDF material, joining and securing.

I'm a little unsure about a couple of things you said so please could you just help me with them?

1. Removing the old skirting and architrave - would you use a chisel and hammer to carefully remove them whilst dust sheeting etc?
2. I don't really want to use a plinth at the bottom (due to the finish I'm looking at) so what other options/alternatives do I have? Or aren't there any?
3. It is definitely the best thing to have the plastering done before fitting the new skirting right?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

1. Removing the old skirting and architrave - would you use a chisel and hammer to carefully remove them whilst dust sheeting etc?

Hammer and prybar - chisels gent bent and become useless if treated as prybars

2. I don't really want to use a plinth at the bottom (due to the finish I'm looking at) so what other options/alternatives do I have? Or aren't there any?

You'll need to pack-out the architraves using something like strips of thin MDF (3mm, 4mm, 6mm, 12mm, etc). That will require a circular saw

3. It is definitely the best thing to have the plastering done before fitting the new skirting right?

Yes. Do it the other way round (i.e. apply skirtings and then plaster) and it always looks as though the skirting is sinking into the wall. It will also create problems for the plasterer, making it more difficult for him to do a good job. In addition it isn't really very clever to put MDF in contact with soaking wet plaster

 

[chriselevate]

Brilliant thanks.
When you say strips of MDF at 3mm etc and circular saw do you mean after the plastering is done, mark where the architrave comes to and then run a blade down it and chisel out the plaster. Then batton and cut the strips of thin mdf and fit it in the void using nails before fixing the architrave on top?
Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

When you say strips of MDF at 3mm etc and circular saw do you mean after the plastering is done, mark where the architrave comes to and then run a blade down it and chisel out the plaster. Then batton and cut the strips of thin mdf and fit it in the void using nails before fixing the architrave on top?

I always try to avoid contact between wet stuff (like plaster) and MDF for very obvious reasons. I recommend that you do the same. If you want to build-out the casings so they act as a level for the plasterer to work to you'd be better of using softwood instead, but that will mean having a table saw to cut your own strips because they aren't really to be bought that thin (they are also prone to splitting when fixed with pins)

 

[geraldthehamster]

I sweep up before getting on my knees!

The importance of this in avoiding pain can not be over-stated

Cheers
Richard

 

[foxhole]

You don't have to use nails to hold skirting in place , scraps of timber braced to skirting and screwed to floor boards leave no filling of skirting when removed. For hard floors I've used buckets of water to hold skirting in place till glue sets.