Oil Filter 1.6 hdi 2010 Peugeot Partner Tepee

[Dave54]

Changed the oil on this this afternoon. No problem really, but can someone tell me what is the correct order to replace the filter element please. Should you stick the filter in the engine with the little spiggoty thing down the requisite 'ole, and then screw the plastic housing on, or should you insert the filter in the plastic housing and then screw the whole lot on?
I did it the former way, filter in the engine first, as I couldn't get the spigot in the hole otherwise, or at least I couldn't be sure of it.
There seem to be two schools of thought out on the internet. As always.

Just as an aside, it is without a doubt the nastiest thing I have seen for a long time. It even beats the Honda 400 F special oil filter housing bolt with the 12mm bolt on a big thread, that used strip the hex off because it was so tight.
The Peugeot one has lots of plastic, and clippy things inside the filter to foil the removal of the element. It was done up so tight by the gorilla (dealer) who tightened it last, that I thought it had broken when it came undone.
I had to look twice to make sure I hadn't accidentally put the socket on the front hub nut or something!

 

[Burnerman]

If the spigot is central, Dave, I usually clip the filter to the cap and then screw the cap down. However, some spigots are off centre and they need to be installed into the filter housing first.
I quite agree, locating the filter on the cap can feel a bit hit or miss affair and you can't really feel what is going on, but in practice they find their own position.
I've had one cap that cross threaded so I'm very careful about that, and the cap just needs to be nipped up really....the o ring sees to the seal.
Give me the can type filter every time!
John

 

[Dave54]

Thanks John, it's the off-centre type. As far as I could tell there was no way to make sure the thing had located, so I put the filter in the housing and then screwed the cover on. There are one or two stories about people finding the things with the spigot not inserted, but it's "only" a drain blanking plug apparently, so that the oil drains when you remove the filter. They seem to have got away with it whatever.
Anyway sounds like I got it right. It's running OK so far!

Tightness. I did it up to what I thought (snug I'd describe it), and then checked it with the torque wrench (25 NM apparently). I was about right.

The sump plug was similarly tight. . .

But of course there is no way of knowing when that was removed last!

And yes, I'd have the canister type over the cartridge type every time!

 

[Burnerman]

If the spigot was off centre, then you've no choice but to stick it in the housing first.....unless you have X-ray eyes to check on its location!
If the spigot didn't locate then it would be very difficult to screw the cap down.
One good thing about these systems is that it's usually possible to put the tube from a vacuum pump down into the oil cooler beneath and suck any residue oil away.....whether this makes any difference at the end of the day is debatable.
This sounds like the engine that likes to block it's turbo feed, I guess?
Regular changes, top quality oil and filter and you'll be fine......there's lots of scaremongering about but it's all related to very infrequent oil drops.
John

 

[KingboyD]

These filters are odd and abit of a pain, if you look into the filter housing on the engine you will see the hole that it goes in & notice there is a raised part thats round, inline & level with the hole, this is the guide for the pointy bit! The filter tightly fits into the filter cap, you fit the cap on & begin to screw it in, the filter will turn with the cap and locate in its hole!

I usually line up the pointy bit just to the left (anti clockwise) from the hole then start turning, this should ensure it goes in almost straight away.

 

[Dave54]

Apparently it is possible to tighten the thing up without the spigot being engaged. What it does to the cartridge itself, God only knows. Think "no oil filtration" I imagine.
Yes it's the 1.6 hdi. "My turbo has gorn down the plug'ole" special. Hence me being a bit sensitive about getting it right.
Although TBH after doing a bit of reading I've put in a Mann filter from ECP, and the right spec fully synth oil from them too. Time will tell. . .
Anyway I followed the spiel that I linked to on that other thread. Didn't know about being able to get the oil from the cooler.
Having done a bit more reading, apparently the ones that generally give trouble have, as you said had too infrequent oil changes (possibly the recommended 15K or whatever it is. Also the inside of the cam box looks gummed up with lumps of clag on ones that are likely to be a bother. Mine''s nice and clean.

 

[Dave54]

These filters are odd and abit of a pain, if you look into the filter housing on the engine you will see the hole that it goes in & notice there is a raised part thats round, inline & level with the hole, this is the guide for the pointy bit! The filter tightly fits into the filter cap, you fit the cap on & begin to screw it in, the filter will turn with the cap and locate in its hole!

I usually line up the pointy bit just to the left (anti clockwise) from the hole then start turning, this should ensure it goes in almost straight away.

Thanks. It's worth knowing it's possible to do it both ways. As I said there seem to be two schools of thought on the "right" way to fit these. I'll have a look next time, but I thought the bit around the hole was just flat on mine. Even with the air hose off though, it's quite hard to see in there properly.