Old Wylex Fuse Box/Electric meter Query Help

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Hi
To cut a long story short my dial type electric meter stopped working and Amey came out to replace it, however when he checked it he found that the fuse box for the shower has been connected directly to the meters load as shown in the pic below, he said that's naughty , got on the phone came back and said he cant replace the broken meter until the shower unit has its own block??.........

as you can see the fuse box is an old 1970's and Dolphin fitted the other fuse box in the 80's, now not sure if they connected it the way shown in the pic( as we used to have an old coin operated meter that was removed in the 90's) and the electric board switched that over , nothing was said at the time about the state of the electrics.....

The Guy from Amey said you might as well get a new CU RCBO etc, what is the likely hood that I will need more than just switching the units etc will I require a re-wire etc , as by the looks of it all the light / sockets are on a single ring ---- not got must of a clue about this stuff

are we looking at a costly job or is their an solution for the shower fuse box, as it has to be disconnected from the meter in order for the meter to be replaced....

meter.jpg


thanks for looking
 
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Normally you would only have one set of cables coming out of the meter, and then split them up to two fuseboards after the meter.

You could just get that work done, if you don't want too spend much.

That being said, as you have no RCD protection on your shower and sockets, it might be worth thinking about a new board, tidying all that area up nicely.

You may not need (read probably won't) need a full rewire, depending on the condition of the installation and how good the cabling still is.

It's not necessarily an issue with it being one power circuit and one lighting circuit - it's not how it's done now, but if you've coped with it like this until now, chances are, unless you live in a massive house, it will be fine.

Your best bet is to get in touch with some local electricians, and talk through your options and costs.

Worst comes to the worst, you could get the shower temporarily disconnected to get the meter back up and running (surprised the meter man didn't suggest this tbh) how are they planning on billing you for the time it hasn't been working? Estimations?
 
You (or your electrician) can use 'henley blocks' to combine the tails to the 2 fuseboxes and present a single L and N connection for the meter. However the age and condition of your rusty wylex box suggests that it's overdue for replacement. Whether full rewiring is required depends on the age and state of the wiring.
 
To just fix the problem the meter fitter didn't like would not take long, nor cost very much.

But as suggested by him, and echoed by others here, it might be worth having more than the bare minimum done - get some electricians in to have a look, quote you, etc.

As your meter has stopped recording then there is no reason why you should not take your time over all of this to make sure you get sound advice from electricians you can trust.
 
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Thanks for the replies.

yep Estimations, not had a bill yet.
Safety over costs not a problem, so getting a new boxed RCD etc would be the best outcome, just concerned if we needed a full re-wire, and understanding all the stuff that might need doing, how would I know if the Gas and water is bonded( just been googling regulations etc).............

thanks
 
There should be a (rather large) green and yellow cable attached to the water and gas supply pipe where they enter the property which connect them to the Main Earthing Terminal of the electrical supply - the metal block at the bottom of the picture.
 
Is it just me or do meter fitters go out of their way to find excuses not to do any work?
 
thanks guys, will phone a few up ,

just so I know a bit of info, I assume the bare minimum would be to fit a Henley block then and split the tails, am I right? , what does this involve?

also surprised the Npower/Amey bloke would not do this in order to fix the meter...
how much harder would it have been for him.
 
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thanks guys, will phone a few up ,

just so I know a bit of info, I assume the bare minimum would be to fit a Henley block then and split the tails, am I right? , what does this involve?

qd100dp-100a-double-pole-5-way-mains-metre-connector-block.jpg


One set of tails in from the meter, two sets out to your units.

It will need the main fuse to be removed, which technically electricians are not allowed to do, but a lot will. The ones in your area should know how antsy the supplier/metering companies get when they find it's been done. Make sure they know that it will be discovered as you are having the meter changed - you don't want another jobsworth fitter to refuse to fit it again because of evidence of "tampering".

You might need to arrange for the electrician and the fitter to be there at the same time, taking it in turns to drink tea and eat biscuits.


also surprised the Npower/Amey bloke would not do this in order to fix the meter...
how much harder would it have been for him.
Well, yes, but they are only allocated a certain amount of time to do each job, they don't carry cables and connector blocks in the van, it would lead to proliferation of tools and materials and fixings, and everything after the meter is yours and your responsibility....
 
Plus it must have been an absolute PITA to squeeze two sets of tails in there. I can't speak for that specific dial meter - most of the meters round here are digital, but very few meters I've seen would even let you get two sets of tails in without pin crimps.

I suspect he didnt want to have to fight to get them in
 
If the terminals are not officially specified as being able to take more than one conductor then that is the end of it - more than one is unacceptable, and the meter fitter was perfectly correct to refuse to perpetuate it.
 

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