open vented problem

[Richie866]

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Hi Guys, I've an open vented fully pumped system and would be really grateful of some advice.
In the above photo the gate valve is leaking like a bugger when its fully open. At the moment I have closed it, to stop the like although it was open. As far as I can tell the valve by passes the heating and hot water return , so:
1. I am questioning why it was originally open?
2. Is it ok to remain closed?
3. Whats the bypass in the system actualy for/do?

Any help would be hugely appreciated

 

[tamz]

Tighten the packing gland slightly, 1/4 to 1/2 turn should be enough (the small nut on the spindle just below the red handle). If you tighten it too much you will not be able to turn the valve.

In laymans terms

1. It is a bypass.
2. No. It should be open a couple of turns.
3. When the heating and water motorised valves close it allows the pump over run to circulate the water until it cools slightly and not damage the boiler.

 

[Agile]

There is a lot of slack in that kind of valve and it should really only be opened just to the point when it starts to pass water. That can sometimes be heard or evidenced by the return side heating up.

It also looks as if the pump valve has also been leaking. The gland on that may also need tightening too.

Tony

 

[Richie866]

Many thanks for your help guys.

The whole system will soon be converted to a sealed system with an unvented cylinder and system boiler. Does the above set up still require the bypass? And will it be ok to leave the valve closed for the next couple of months if my CH will not be going on?

 

[lightning]

Many thanks for your help guys.

The whole system will soon be converted to a sealed system with an unvented cylinder and system boiler. Does the above set up still require the bypass? And will it be ok to leave the valve closed for the next couple of months if my CH will not be going on?

No bypass will be in the boiler allready fitted so that can all be cut out.

 

[Agile]

The whole system will soon be converted to a sealed system with an unvented cylinder and system boiler.

Does the above set up still require the bypass? And will it be ok to leave the valve closed for the next couple of months if my CH will not be going on?

Check with the installer before assuming the new boiler has an internal bypass.

That valve can just be left closed with the new system.

If your current boiler has a pump over run then the bypass valve should still be left in the open setting now.

Tony

 

[DP]

If your current boiler has a pump over run then the bypass valve should still be left in the open setting now.

The gate valve will need to be replaced with a dedicated bypass valve.

 

[Richie866]

Once again thanks for your help Gents. My current boiler is a Glow Worm Ultimate, I found out it does need a bybass, so I'm going to crack open the valve and try and fix the leak!

 

[bengasman]

A gatevalve is a really poor way of doing this. Get rid of it completely, or change it to an automatic version depending on when you do it.