Optima Compact G3 + Reson8 Bell Box

[BazzaBB]

Hi
After about 4 years I've eventually got round to trying to get my alarm up and running.

I seem to be having problems with the bell box

I only had a 4 core wire running to the bell box so have wired it up as follows:

Panel Bell Box
(T) -ve tamper return RTN-
(A) -ve supply (0v) Hold Off -
(D) +ve supply (12v) Hold Off +
(B) -ve sounder trigger Trig -

Because I only have a 4 core wire I've also linked the (B) Trig - with the STB - in the bell box

I've powered up the system but not yet tried to program it as I have a problem that when I try to enable the battery in the the bell box it won't stop ringing, even when you put the code into the panel whilst holding the tamper spring in.

Please can someone help me, and tell me where I'm going wrong

Thank you

 

[joe-90]

You need to check your hold-off voltages with a meter.

Some sounders only complete the circuit when the lid is closed.

Try measuring the voltage A and D then press the tamper switch/spring. If you get a voltage when it is closed just stick the lid on.

 

[BazzaBB]

Hi Guys

Thanks for replying.

Sorry, I've not replied sooner, but the Mrs went out the other day and slammed the door and the tamper alarm went off, so I've been busy trying to find that problem. In the end I've removed the tamper as I can't really see why it's necessary in a domestic system?

I've not got a meter and tried to use a small torch bulb between the +ve and -ve but it failed to light. I've noticed in the instructions it says that there's 2 LEDs in the bellbox that show (Red) Presence of Hold Off supply and (Green) Tamper healthy but these do not also appear to be working.

I thought I'd solved the problem when I noticed the bell/strobe fuse had blown and changed it - but still no luck!

In response to the question the wiring in the bellbox should be:
STB- = Strobe- or (-Strobe or -St)
Trig- = B- or (Bell -)
Hold Off - = A- or (Tamper Supply -)
Hold Off + = D+ or (Bell +)
RTN- = T- or (Tamper Return-)

My panel =
Strobe +
Strobe -
T (SCB)
A (SCB)
D (Bell +)
B (Bell -)

I guess there's issues with power getting to the box. Should I try to get a meter?

Any other thought's

Thanks again

Barry

 

[Europlex]

I guess there's issues with power getting to the box. Should I try to get a meter?

Not a bad investment, even the cheap ones 'work'.

Example, looking at a fuse is not the way to check it, a meter is.

Good for a number of other things also, have a good read of the manual.

One thing, take care when/if you are ever measuring mains voltage, it hurts if you get something wrong.

 

[BazzaBB]

Hi Guys,

I don't know what's been going on with all these deleted posts?

I've got hold of a test meter from my nephew, but can someone tell me how I go about using it?

Thanks

Barry

 

[BazzaBB]

Sorry, should have mentioned that the meter I have got hold of is a Fluke 175

 

[mdf290]

Is noone going to mention the fact that keeping the tamper is still IMPORTANT in a domestic system?

 

[BazzaBB]

Hi Guys,

How's all this helping me?

 

[chaindaisy]

Bazza,

Besides the sounder problem, it seems that you may have a tamper fault on the main exit door contact, if slamming the door causes a tamper.

CD

 

[BazzaBB]

Hi Chaindaisy,

I don't have a main exit door contact - I'm using a PIR facing the front door for the entry zone.

The panel is stable now and has not gone off since I put the link in to disable the tamper

Does a domestic system really need a tamper?

I now have a test meter but don't know how to use it?

Cheers

Bazza

 

[Europlex]

A builder or carpet fitter or plumber may damage a cable and you will not know anything about it necesarily until you get around to setting the alarm. If there were a tamper loop running through the cable then you would know about it immediately, so it has it's good points. A well looked after tamper loop can be well worth it.

Make up your mind.

Especially if the fitter etc cuts cleanly through the cable or cuts through the tamper part of the cable.
If he cuts through the 'alarm circuit' wires, and there is, ............ what's the point daisychain is always right, the rest of the alarm industry is now going to be rewriting all its manuals now to remove all mention of tamper circuits that it has been using since, so long I can't remember.

What if you have mice or squirrels eating a cable (it does happen) I assume you would be happy to find out a week later when you come to go on holiday that the alarm does not work?

By the way, your 'mates' book is a bit out of date isn't it 1997?

Mate, take care

 

[bernardgreen]

Quite a few engineers on the site recommend the use of a multimeter,

How else would you measure ( or test ) for the presence or absence of a voltage ? The battery and buzzer method will show continuity but continuity in itself is not enough, there has to be a voltage as well before there can be any current to make use of the continuity.

 

[bernardgreen]

a friend of mine, Vivian Capel, wrote in his book that in his opinion it is not needed in a domestic.

The name was familiar, he wrote a series of books in the 1970 about audio equipment and how to service it. Google books allow you to read most of his book on security and in it he mentions radio paging from alarm sensors directly to a pocket pager carried by the owner, he mentions a 4 mile radius of coverge. I now wonder if he was the person who asked my employer ( in the 70's or early 80's ) about equipment for that function.

 

[alumni]

Quite a few engineers on the site recommend the use of a multimeter,

How else would you measure ( or test ) for the presence or absence of a voltage ? The battery and buzzer method will show continuity but continuity in itself is not enough, there has to be a voltage as well before there can be any current to make use of the continuity.

He'll get round to adressing that in Tome 4.

 

[joe-90]

The battery and buzzer will cost almost as much as the meter and will be 100th of the use of a proper meter. As usual, the advice from Daisy is bad.