Original wood window frames, how to repair & stain varn

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I started off sanding the windows to paint, however the wood looks nice, so thinking of painting the frames (as they're a pain to sand) but doing something with the window sill.
I'm sanding them back, removing all the old filler and rotten wood.
Looking for advice on how to fill the cracks then what to treat the wood to preserve it and keep it looking good.
Please bear in mind, today being a Sunday I'm limited to the metal sheds for places to buy.
Any and all advice is welcome, from sanding filling to finish and colour
Cheers

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• 18 Apr 2015
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[Burnerman]

Hmm you may be asking a bit much long term, but for filling consider the epoxy type.......very similar to car body filler, its mixed on a tray, pushed into the split and then 20 minutes or so later its completely set and ready for sanding. Ronseal do a 'high performance' product, but car filler is cheaper.
After that, its a clear preservative solution followed by primer and top coats.
John

 

[compact]

Hi Cheers for the reply.
I was hoping to keep the look of the wood with a clear ish varnish
Wouldn't the car filler only be good if I can painting them?

The windows are original and as such have been there for 80+ years, so hopefully they will last if I look after them.

Will it be possible to fill and match, then protecting, or am I looking at filling and then painting?

Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

I guess all fillers will be visible to some degree.....the Ronseal one is actually pine coloured so its probably as near as you can get. Maybe a darker varnish / stain will suit you?
John

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I was hoping to keep the look of the wood with a clear ish varnish

Basically I think that you are asking far too much. It is very difficult to get any filler to match the existing timber, but also when you use ANY clear lacquer on the window frames (almost nobody uses varnish any longer - it crazes and cracks in the sun) the timber will change colour because it absorbs finish whereas the filler won't thus making your filled areas even more obvious. That's why it's rarely done by decorators

If you want to look after your windows then wire-brush any rotted areas to remove pinky (soft) timber, treat the affected areas with wood hardener (such as Voss Wood Hardener) and do the filling. For a finish which will outlast any modern alkyd paint I'd recommend that you use a linseed oils based paint such as Allback which allows the timber to breath and is therefore less likely to cause premature rotting (before WWII there were no alkyd paints). As with a lot of materials worth using these aren't cheap materials and I don't think the DIY sheds sell them

 

[ladylola]

I guess all fillers will be visible to some degree.....the Ronseal one is actually pine coloured so its probably as near as you can get. Maybe a darker varnish / stain will suit you?
John

One problem I've found is that type of filler tends to lighten when sanded too , although it is possible to use paint stains or pigments to recolour the filler. I've done it myself on a number of occasions especially when trying to hide something on older timber and have most often used a burnt umber powder. That said and even though I've done a certain amount I'd still only describe my efforts as adequate , to get it perfect takes a good degree of skill. In this case I'd be inclined to go with a paint finish and J&B 's advice is worth following.

 

[compact]

Thanks for the replies.
Here's where I got to, u sanded, filled using ronseal, then applied some ronseal natural oak.
In the centre you can see a small spot of filler, it's not blending in, however not exactly sticking out like a sore thumb.

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• 19 Apr 2015
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Here you can see the large amount of filler

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And where I've got to

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• 19 Apr 2015
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I'm still 50 50.

I like the idea of seeing the wood and the grain, however there is still a lot of sanding and filling.
And it won't look exactly like a new window.

There's a temptation to finish the sill, and paint the uprights etc white.
I suppose worst case I sand and stain it all, don't like it, then more sanding and painting...

It would have been simpler to do what the old lady before did, no sanding, just put another layer on

 

[compact]

Ok another wood and paint question.
How do you get a smooth finish when the wood is pitted and old.
In the house I would use fine filler.
The Ronseal Exterior filler seems like it is too thick for these small mm indentations.
Or do I just keep sanding those areas until completely smooth even if they end up being lower than the surrounding surface?

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• 25 Apr 2015
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[AronSearle]

Can't answer your filler question, but to add to previous points.

No to oil/varnish, completely unsuitable for those type of windows, as they don't offer enough protection and durability.

Needs to be a paint or a stain, any heavily sanded areas should be preservative treated as well. Those type of windows are likely Douglas fir or treated softwood, Doug fir has some natural durability but unless you know it is this timber, re-treat them.


Have you re done some of the beading? I ask because the beading on the bottom looks more 'gappy', this again needs to be sealed and protected and paints traditionally did a better job of this than other finishes.

The problem with traditional solid beading like that is water can be trapped behind it and in the joints if it is not properly sealed. Old windows tend to have so many coats of paint on them (including older lead paints), that they work fairly well.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Ok another wood and paint question.
How do you get a smooth finish when the wood is pitted and old.

Remove punky wood with a wire brush. Treat with wood hardener. Use a 2-pack filler, or even P45 car body filler. Sand. Prime. Paint. Single pacjk fillers aren't as durable and tend to shrink

And TBH I think your filler looks awful in bare wood and to me that does stand out, but then it's just that when my customers want it to blend in they really mean "disappear"

 

[geraldthehamster]

My two penn'orth:

1. Bare wood - if you like the look of wood grain, you're better off doing this indoors. Exterior softwood is meant to be painted, and looks better for it.

2. The defects under the paint - in my opinion this is what gives old painted wood its character, so I wouldn't worry about getting it absolutely smooth.

Cheers
Richard

 

[joe-90]

My daughter lives on a boat and she has been doing repairs to her woodwork.

She uses this stuff:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tr...paration/u-pol-glass-fibre-repair-paste-900ml

It's amazingly good for thick or thin application. I bought some myself already. Unlike car body filler, it is totally waterproof.

Don't even think about it - just go out and buy a tin.

 

[gregers]

you can use a resin repair this is a very good product iirc brewers sell it.very robust and moves with the timber.but it will have to be painted over because of the colour.we use something similar to this,
http://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/pro...001002a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=products

 

[compact]

And TBH I think your filler looks awful in bare wood and to me that does stand out, but then it's just that when my customers want it to blend in they really mean "disappear"

how would you make it disappear?
I can grind out the filler I put in, but when I looked on the shelves, that was the nearest colour match I could find
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[Deleted member 174758]

As I may have stated - you wont get a colour match, even clear lacquer will change the colour of the timber and any competent, self respecting tradesman would recommend painted finish. Anything else looks like a DIY bodge job to me