Outdoor Living Area/Shed/Bar...who knows...drainage advice

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Hi all,

I have built and outdoor oven last/this year, and during which time I decided to rip down an existing shed, and build a new one in it's place.

The project got bigger and bigger, and I decided to lay a multi-level deck around the who area.

I built the frame for the deck, then decided to not build a shed, but instead a bit more of a functional outdoor area.

As my plan for the frame has changed from a deck with a smallish shed to a deck with a large open summerhouse/outdoor living/bar area, I'm no sure if I have made enough provision to scale it up to this.

The deck frame is nearly complete, all 2x4 with 4" posts in about 10" - 12" of postcrete.

If I build this outdoor area which will now take up most of the upper deck level, do I need to consider drainage?

It will max height of 2.5 as is near a boundary.

The footprint of the main summerhouse part will be around 2m x 5m with a 1m or 2m extended part to the front and side which will just be like a covered area - no walls, just some beams supporting the roof.

Any advice on some new considerations I now need to make, although I am kind of stuck with the frame in it's current format.

Thanks!

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I would recommend getting a load of block pavers and put them
under your 4x2" for support and keep them of the soil.
 
Hi,

Although it may not look it, none of the 4x2 are touching the soil.

I am planning on laying weed control membrane under the entire deck, and topping it with some left over MOT Sub Base.

I will however wedge some additional pavers for the extra support.
 
The joist nearer the camera then the one with the level on, seems to be short of a "post". I too think there should be a lot more intermediate supports for the joists. The problem here is that just jamming a brick under the joists , is that the bottom of the brick might be sitting on an isolated high point (pebble?). With a bit of settlement, the brick will be loose. The best way, would be to release all the fixings to the posts. The frame then can be levered up and using the weight of the frame, allow it to settle down the brick on its bed of mortar. So the weight is spread via the mortar over a much larger area of ground.
Rather then using posts, it would have been better to use a concrete padstone with a 8mm hole in it. The underneath of the joist is also drilled 8mm for a depth of 2". So you get a bit of 8mm studding and with 2" square washers, sit it on the padstone, then a nut, then another nut then another washer into the hole in the joist. Now by tightening the nuts against their surfaces the joist can be jacked up or down.
Frank
 
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