Oven and hob installation

[jal1971]

Hi,
I have just installed a seperate electric oven and hob, without thinking too much I ran a 10.0mm T&E from the consumer unit to a cooker control unit from there I connected it to the hob with some more 10.0 mm cable.I also ran a 2.5mm T & E from the consumer unit which i terminated under the work top in to a fused spur then ran a 2.5 mm flex to the oven (about 2.5kw) . My question is (are) Is this a perfectly acceptable installation ? I wonder because the cooker control unit only switches the hob and not the cooker. How should it be wired if I have it wrong. Should I re label the cooker switch to say \\\'Hob\\\' instead of cooker.

Many Thanks in advance.

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[davy_owen_88]

I have just installed a seperate electric oven and hob, without thinking too much I ran a 10.0mm T&E from the consumer unit to a cooker control unit from there I connected it to the hob with some more 10.0 mm cable.

What size MCB did you use and how long is the run from the CU? Is there a socket on the CCU and if so is it RCD protected or suitably labelled as not suitable for supplying outdoor equipment?

I also ran a 2.5mm T & E from the consumer unit which i terminated under the work top in to a fused spur then ran a 2.5 mm flex to the oven (about 2.5kw) .

What size MCB did you use?

My question is (are) Is this a perfectly acceptable installation ? I wonder because the cooker control unit only switches the hob and not the cooker. How should it be wired if I have it wrong. Should I re label the cooker switch to say \\\'Hob\\\' instead of cooker.

You should have an easy means of isolating the oven - move the fused spur to somewhere accessible (next to the CCU would be a good place).

No need to relabel the switch but there isn't any harm in doing so if you want.

 

[jal1971]

The cable run is about 7 m . The hob is protected by an rcd and 50 A mcb. THe oven is protected by rcd and 16A mcb. The ccu has a socket outlet. The hob is 7.6 kw and the oven 2.8kw .

Is it possible to 'do away' with the 2.5 T&E and feed the spur, which is under the worktop, from the CCU ?, the cooker would then also be switched from the ccu .

The cable is run in 25x40 plastic truncking for about 4 m then behind the kitchen unit plinths then about 1.5 m behind plaster board.

Thanks

 

[davy_owen_88]

Is it possible to 'do away' with the 2.5 T&E and feed the spur, which is under the worktop, from the CCU ?, the cooker would then also be switched from the ccu.

Yes it is possible but if you have already installed the cable you might as well use it - just fit another CCU next to the one for the hob and use that or move the fused spur.

 

[jal1971]

Its just that the tiles have now been put up and pulling through the cables would be a pain in the ar i mean neck. If I can use the 10.0 mm to supply both I think I will do that. What is the maximum current that I can draw from the circuit in this situation ?

I will leave the 2.5mm as a reminder of my stupidity, Properly isolated both ends of course !

Is there a ccu with a fused connection incorporated into it ?

Thanks

 

[devonspark]

`If you have installed a cooker outlet behind the oven just install a 13 A spur off that to feed the oven. No need to disturb the tiles then and the CCU switches both . No nasty surprises for anyone who follows

 

[jal1971]

Thanks to all who replied, I have followed your instruction devonspark,
one problem I have come across is that the M.K cooker plate connection units - (the connection bit you wire into under the work top) are difficult to get the 2 x 10.0 mm cables and a 2.5 supply off to the spur. The brass connectors don't seem to be big enough to get them all in.

 

[Diyisfun]

Thanks to all who replied, I have followed your instruction devonspark,
one problem I have come across is that the M.K cooker plate connection units - (the connection bit you wire into under the work top) are difficult to get the 2 x 10.0 mm cables and a 2.5 supply off to the spur. The brass connectors don't seem to be big enough to get them all in.

Why are there2 x 10mm
You should have the 1 x 10mm in, then what ever you need to supply the hob & oven (1 x 6mm & 1 x 2.5) I think that is how I did mine.

 

[Diyisfun]

Thanks to all who replied, I have followed your instruction devonspark,
one problem I have come across is that the M.K cooker plate connection units - (the connection bit you wire into under the work top) are difficult to get the 2 x 10.0 mm cables and a 2.5 supply off to the spur. The brass connectors don't seem to be big enough to get them all in.

Why are there2 x 10mm
You should have the 1 x 10mm in, then what ever you need to supply the hob & oven (1 x 6mm & 1 x 2.5) I think that is how I did mine.

Edit
It also acceptable to link from Hob to oven. If that is practicable

 

[securespark]

You should NOT have 2.5 on a circuit with 10mm² protected by a 50 MCB!!!!

All cables attached to a radial circuit should be rated to at least to the value of the CPD.

 

[jal1971]

Ok, so if I follow devonspark suggestion, I would have a 10mm from the ccu and 2 x 6mm (1 for hob and 1 for spur to feed hob) . I am told I can de rate the CPD to a 40 A. So im still left trying to get 1 x 10.0mm and 2 x 6.0mm in a connection unit, will they fit .

 

[jal1971]

Just to add , I was browsing the forums when I came across a post titled Single eletric oven installation (sic) . Basically the post concludes by saying the oven could be plugged into the ring circuit, surely the cooker wouldn't be plugged in above the worktop so i presume the socket would be hidden or at least unaccessible, if this is acceptable why do I need to switch the cooker from a ccu, could I not just leave it as originally planned connected in to a fused spur under the worktop, and just switching the hob from the ccu ? what is the difference in my situation to the of the post mentioned above?

Thanks