oven and seperate hob

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26 Feb 2005
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Berwickshire
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United Kingdom
I have been through all the other postings but I cant find the answer that I need.I am installing a new kitchen at the end of July. At present there is a hob and separate double oven on different sides of the kitchen. When the new kitchen goes in I will be putting a single oven directly under the new ceramic hob. Having checked the existing wiring I have found that there is one 30amp circuit in the fuse box which leads to the landing where a 30 amp junction is used to split the cable so that seperate cables run to the hob and double oven. Both appliances have seperate double pole switches and are on 6mm cable. Nothing else is on this circuit.The length of the cable run from the fuse box to the appliances is no more than 4 metres. My questions are
1, Is this right?
2, Can I use the existing hob cable for the new hob? I am planning to remove the other cable from the junction as it wont be needed.
3, My new fan assisted single oven only needs a 13amp supply so would it be better to have a seperate fused spur from the existing 13amp circuit.
4, Do I need special heat resistant cable for the oven because it is going to be under the hob?
 
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What are the power ratings of the hob and double oven you are putting in? - it sounds like it could exceed the 30A radial, in which case a 10mm cable and 45A breaker may be in order. Does the cable go through any insulation, or can it self cool easily? (this affects the safe current rating of the 6mm cable)

Alternatively use 2 radial cuircuits, one per applience, & note that if the hob and oven are well apart, then they should have had separate isolator switches, within 2m and easily reached, of the cooker or whatever that they controlled. Now they can share one!
If you are worried about cable in a hot area you could use heat resistant (feels rubbery, like immersion heater flex) but there again the size depends on the rating.
If the oven can plug in, it is common to have a socket and plug for it, run from the cooker terminals, as it is then locally fused down, and easily removed and isolated for maintainance.
I'll say it, so others don't -you have considered part P haven't you? - even if you decided to ignore it, and 'forget' to report the work.
 
The hob is 6kw max and the oven is a single fan assisted. The cable doesn't pass through any insulation.They do have separate isolator switches.
Yes all work will be checked when the fuse box is changed as well.
 
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6Kw (say 25A )plus 2 or 3kW (say 8 or 12A) for the oven - although adding up to more than 30A grand total possible demand, might well in practice be fine on a 30A breaker and cable, as it is most unlikely to be all on at once at full power.
BUT if, given what you know about your cooking habits, you think there is reasonable risk of this however, then really an upgrade of cable to 10mm and breaker to 40A or 45A would certainly cover it. Personally, I'd leave it at 30A and existing cable, assuming its 6mmsq or more and in good condition.
 

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