Painting old copings

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The coping stones on the garden wall are a bit of mess, i have just repointed them all, give them a good scraping and rub down and lots of the old paint came off down to the cement, so do i apply a coat of Zinsser 123 followed by a coat of sealer before i apply the final coat of masonry paint or is this a bit too much or totally wrong?
 
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Providing that the cement is in good condition all you will need to apply as a sealer would be a thinned coat of masonry paint, if however it appears in anyway powdery then you will need to apply a stabilising solution to seal them before you apply your paint.

Dec
 
Just a consideration, but if you have smooth finish coping stones they are notoriously difficult to get masonry paint to adhere to for long periods of time. It may adhere initially but will eventually begin to flake and peel. If these are the kind of stones you have, and as you have already suffered adhesion problems, the Bullseye 123 may be worth a try.

Dec's suggestion of a diluted first coat is usually successful in all other instances.
 
Good point raised there by Mr H, yet if they are indeed very smooth in appearance just rough them up a little with some 80 grit. Though I would assume that you may have already achieved this with your initial preparation. Important thing is thin your first coat down.

Dec
 
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Will give the Zinsser a go am i better to put the Zinsser onto the raw stone only rather than paint the whole coping stone so whenever the top coat is applied the different paint thickness is reduced and the finish will look better, i think some painters refer to this as spot priming.
 
Yes my mistake forgot the existing paintwork, you will need here to sand back the solid areas until you achieve a uniform finish. You can then spot prime with 123 and caary on with your masonry paint, if you were to attempt to paint them in their present condition the finish result will be very poor.

Dec
 
TheDec what do you mean by "you will need here to sand back the solid areas until you achieve a uniform finish".
 
On your copings you have paint that seems to have become well adhered, and has only in part failed thus exposing the bare cement.

The solid areas would be the edges of the existing paintwork, you will need to sand these edges until the solid paintwork becomes the same level as the bare cement, a technique known as feathering.

You should allow your hand as opposed to your eyes guide you here for the hand can often tell stories that the eyes can't see, that is what is meant as a uniform finish. when you are able to run your hand over the copings and feel no variation in level you will be ready to apply your paint.

Therefore if you were only to apply your 123 and then apply your paint system without following the above advice the end result would not look very nice.

Dec
 
understand now.
I will need a lot of sandpaper as i have about 100 feet of coping to do. :cry:
 
Jesus, I have just spent three hours sanding down the paint edges and going by this rate i will be at this for the next week, is there no other way of doing this?
would exterior filler do, could one try and feather the filler into the coping?
 
You can if you wish apply a filler yet I would have grave reservations regarding longeveity, get yourself some 60 grit paper and if you have an electric sander use it with that, if you don't achieve a uniform finish the end result will be something that you won't be proud of.

When your done there will be no need to apply the 123 just a thinned coat of masonry paint on the bare cement and carry on with your finish coats.
You could choose to use a textured coating that will help to mask any imperfections yet the right approach is always the best.

Dec
 

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