Plasterboarding ceiling

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I have a ceiling that, let's say is a bit of a mess, having suffered sagging from past water leaks in a couple of places and having been patched (badly) when previous extension work was done. I was going to cut out and patch the offending areas and then get a reskim, which we are also getting done on all the walls. However, it has occurred to me that it might be better to just clad the entire ceiling in another layer of plasterboard after cutting out the bad areas. The current ceiling is far from flat anyway, even in the "good" areas so this solution would sort this out as well. Are there likely to be any problems with this and is there any advice that I should heed?
 
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"Overboarding" is a common way of sorting out that kind of ceiling.As long as you make sure to screw to the joists and stagger the joints you should be ok.
 
Am I as well patching the cut out areas before overboarding or is this a waste of time? One of the areas is perhaps 1m square and I was looking at it from the fact that there will be a gap between the new board and the joists in this area which may give problems when I try to screw the board up. Otherwise I suppose I could just pad the joist out with strips of plasterboard.
 
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Or you can counter batten with 2x1 roofing batten, this gives you the opportunity to screw the battens tight to the joists above and shim them so the ceiling is as true as you'd like it to be!
 
Now you've got me thinking. I did this for a tongue and groove ceiling in my kitchen. Lot of work but the effort was worth it. There may be a reason why I can't do this but I will have to take some measurements to check. If I have to stick with the direct overboarding method, am I better using 12mm board as opposed to 9.5mm board or will it make no difference.
 
It's time they scrapped the 9.5.
 
Thanks for the advice. The current board appears to be 9.5, and now you have mentioned it, this may be one reason for the ceiling being so uneven. I will order the thicker board.
 
9.5 is useul for overboarding or for tight heads/reveals (paritcualrly those frames with vents) but for general tacking or sticking would agree with joe it should come with a warning
 

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