Plywood flooring - hardwood or softwood?

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Hi, I'm considering plywood for flooring (the main floor - not subfloor) throughout the ground floor of our new house. Considering buying sheets and cutting it into floorboards & treating it myself.
  1. Should I go for hardwood ply or softwood ply, and any particular grade and thickness? (I'm thinking hardwood 18mm?)
  2. Am I mad?!
Thanks, Tom.
 
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You will waste your time and money.
It won't wear as flooring should
The edges will feather no matter how cleanly you try to cut it.
You won't get one board to butt correctly to the next one.
How will you fix it.
On and on and on.

Spend your time and money on the real thing.
 
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Thanks for your input. I've seen plywood used as flooring very effectively. I would have thought that cutting it and fixing it shouldn't be an issue with the right equipment. I know it can be done, but whether that means it's the right option for us, and how to go about it, are different issues. Thanks again.
 
The right equipment is the issue. You need a rail saw (e.g. Festool), industrial vacuum, a second fix nailer and a decent router (to handle the t & g joints). The stuff I've dealt with commercially seems to have a thicker surface veneers and is graded AA/B or A/B (i.e no face defects or only minor ones on the best side) and also has no voids - so Brazilian or Indonesian in the main not the Chinese carp everyone wants to sell you. You will need to talk to a specialist plywood supplier to etc this stuff - normally sold in full package lots.Forget softwood - simply not hard enough to withstand stiletto heels or heavy impacts without permanent damage. It can actually cost more to install this stuff than a spruce ply subfloor with Karndean on top and it doesn't wear brilliantly as well as needing regular refinishing with a heavy duty lacquer
 
The t & g is necessary to prevent creaking of floors at joints - we generally rout a 7mm groove in the edges of all the boards and glue in 6mm or 1/4in ply rips around 25mm wide (merchants can supply boards pre-grooved and the matching ply loose tongues). We use a D4 glue which us waterproof. Ideally you may need to cut the sheets so that the short ends land on joists and are adequately supported
 
I've had a h/w faced ply floor put down by a pro. He did any trimming of the boards round the edges so they were hidden by the skirting, meaning that the factory cuts were used to give perfect joints in the middle of the room. I have dyed and varnished it and am pleased with the results, I am happy to have it on show with a few rugs (sadly he has now given up the business).

I am doing the bathroom in ply myself, and bought it at a higher price from a place that cuts to order using their enormous upright cutting machine. I have a few cuts and trims to do, e.g. where walls are not straight, and am mostly hiding them. However slow and careful I am, I can't get perfect cuts myself (I am not very good at woodwork). Luckily the bathroom is quite small and I have had the pieces cut so all short edges are on joists, except that I have one nog under the basin due to an alcove. I could not possibly put in tongues myself.

I previously did the kitchen in spruce flooring ply, and although it is easy to hide cuts under the units and edges, the face finish is rather poor and unsightly, so would not be suitable for stain and varnish even if I'd wanted to.

IMO the time saved, and quality of the job, repays the extra cost of having the pieces cut for me, and is not much when I am just doing one room at a time. It also makes them easier to carry upstairs.

BTW if you look at the edges of the boards in the merchants, you can form an opinion on whether the cores are gappy or made of little scraps. As Job says, some stocks are better than others. Mine does have a "best" side which is OK as long as you check before cutting or fixing.
 
Hi John, that's fascinating, thanks very much. Did that place that did the cutting for you put tongue & groove in too, or are you laying them with flat edges?
 
square edges.

It was just a DIY shed I went to.

I see there is a timber merchant in a nearby city that has a sawmill and milling shop, but it didn't occur to me.
 

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