Prep and paint new plaster

[LadyM]

We have had a room re plastered and it has dried out so I'm getting ready to do the mist coat, and have a few silly questions.

I have noticed that in some area's the plaster is a bit rough/dimpled (lower rather than raised), will paint cover this or should I fill it in or try to sand it. I can be a bit of a perfectionist so not sure if I'm going overboard, I've tried to take pics below but I'm not sure they really depict the walls well.

Untitled

• LadyM
• 30 Oct 2014
• 1

Untitled

• LadyM
• 30 Oct 2014
• 1

There are also a couple of glaring small holes that I'd like to fill and was wondering if it was worth splashing out on easi-fill, we have a whole house to do up in time, does it last or do you have to use it up in a short time span like plaster?

Areas round the window there are gaps, before the window was silicone sealed in should I do this or use decorators caulk?

Untitled

• LadyM
• 30 Oct 2014
• 1

Thanks

 

[wrathkeg]

Don't use silicone sealant as you won't be able to paint over it.

I would use Red Devil Onetime filler for the other bits.

 

[misterhelpful]

Although the finish doesn't look brilliant, plasterers often end up leaving a few blemishes in corners and edges, so filling is often necessary. Carefully scrape off any high spots/nibs in the plaster before you mist coat it all. Only fill the defects after doing this because the mist coat will probably highlight a few more defects that need filling and it will also satisfy the porosity of the plaster. This will stop the plaster absorbing too much moisture from the filler - filling bare plaster always makes the patches more noticeable.

Various fillers can be used at this point - ready mixed, powder, lightweight, fine surface, etc, - so the choice will be down to you as to what you need. Easi-fill is suitable but, once you have mixed it, it will harden between 15-90 minutes later (depending on which type you get) so only mix enough for the amount of filling you can do in that time. As long as the bag is sealed, it will last months in it's powdered state. I think a ready mixed fine surface filler would be just as suitable, and less fuss to use, although Easi-fill is very easy to sand smooth if you overfill anything. As for the window frames, I would get the mist coat done, caulk the perimeter and then use your finish coats.

 

[LadyM]

Thanks for the advice guys, I was going to fill before the mist coat so it's a good job you told me otherwise.

There is also a small wire in the room which we originally didn't get chased in, it's for an alarm and my partner thought it might be better to leave it accessible.

Other than cable clips or trunking are there any better methods of concealing it? The wire runs from ceiling to floor, through an open built in cupboard. I can post a photo tomorrow if needed.

 

[HawkEye244]

Just one thing to know about easyfill, I made the mistake of continually adding water to keep it workable until it reached a glue-like state - two weeks on and what's left in the bucket is like dough - don't be tempted to keep adding water

 

[HawkEye244]

Although the finish doesn't look brilliant, plasterers often end up leaving a few blemishes in corners and edges, so filling is often necessary. Carefully scrape off any high spots/nibs in the plaster before you mist coat it all. Only fill the defects after doing this because the mist coat will probably highlight a few more defects that need filling and it will also satisfy the porosity of the plaster. This will stop the plaster absorbing too much moisture from the filler - filling bare plaster always makes the patches more noticeable.

Various fillers can be used at this point - ready mixed, powder, lightweight, fine surface, etc, - so the choice will be down to you as to what you need. Easi-fill is suitable but, once you have mixed it, it will harden between 15-90 minutes later (depending on which type you get) so only mix enough for the amount of filling you can do in that time. As long as the bag is sealed, it will last months in it's powdered state. I think a ready mixed fine surface filler would be just as suitable, and less fuss to use, although Easi-fill is very easy to sand smooth if you overfill anything. As for the window frames, I would get the mist coat done, caulk the perimeter and then use your finish coats.

Mister, sorry just a follow up query to this - I'm finishing up a bathroom and the walls are tiled but the ceiling is painted and finished. Can I use a silicone along the perimeter or does it need to be acrylic caulk? My understanding is the only benefit of using acrylic is that it can be painted over which in my case isn't necessary as the ceiling has been done already. Many thanks

 

[misterhelpful]

You can use silicone around the edge of the ceiling if you have tiles. As long as you make a neat job of it, when it comes to painting the ceiling in future, you will be able to wipe off any emulsion that may overlap onto it with a damp cloth.