pyronix sterling 10 problems

[robbie77]

Hello,

I have had to move my alarm and have since tried to rewire it according to some pictures I took of the wiring previously and also I have the engineer instructions.

I wired up the bell and the PIR's into the PCB and grouped all the positive and negative wires into respective chock blocks and linked back to the aux on the PCB ( I don't think the original wiring did this but I looked at teh schematic and it looked like I should do this).



I tried to wire in what I thought was the magnetic sensor into the PCB , the PTS slots, also and grouped the tamper wires together just to test it ( I know these should be done in series but I just wanted to test the PIR's wiring was ok). I have not wired in the T and T slots on the PCB yet.

I tested the bell Ok but when I shut the door to test the magnetic door it did bot like it and the alarm went into a whimper and the control panel went blank.

The alarm was hot inside and I did not have the correct fuse size in the spur (school boy error and impatient I know).

There are two fuses on the PCB that look OK but the keypad will not light up?

Have i shorted something and broken it? How resilient are they?
Any advice!

Thanks

 

[robbie77]

A little update....

I have 240v going into the alarm box and 12v to the PCB.
I did not find any reading from the Keypad positive or negative or anywhere else on the board I tested.

Any other ideas to try before I look at alternatives?

 

[joe-90]

Which part was hot?

 

[robbie77]

It looks like a heat sink type thing like you get inside a pc, on the right hand side of the pcb.
No sign of any burning or fried capacitors

 

[robbie77]

Untitled

• robbie77
• 7 Jun 2010
• 2

The metal "s" on the right.

This is a picture before I moved it when it worked

 

[joe-90]

That's supposed to get hot.


Check the fuses with a meter.

 

[robbie77]

Ah Ok.

What is the best way of doing this? Obviously with a multi meter pointing at some terminals.

 

[joe-90]

Easiest way is to pop it out and check the resistance.

Or check for volts across it ( if in situ) should read zero.

 

[robbie77]

For those that are interested it was something as simple loose connections in the spur giving intermittent readings. It now seems to be working OK although I did have a little help from a friend who fits alarms for a living!