Ravenheat RSF 82E wont go to main flame HELP !!!!!!!!!!!

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Devon
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My boiler pilot lights instantly on demand for hot water and heating but it wont go to main flame plus the igniter keeps going then after 20 seconds it goes to flame lockout. I've had an engineer out who changed the igniterand lead, new main PCB board and igniter PCB. Still no good so he tapped the gas valve and it fired up for a few seconds and then replaced that too but still it wont work. I stripped the old one just to see how it works and i think im right in saying the bigger valve lets the gas in and the smaller one lets gas to the pilot jet, the gas feed to the main burner seems to work from a vacuum, when you suck on the inlet pipe to the burner it opens a diaghram and for the main burner gas supply. So could it be my fan not working properly, or something else. The enginner has given up on it and suggest i buy a new boiler. I've spent too uch money on it for that. Can anyone help please
 
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Don't suppose the polarity to the boiler has been changed? Have you been doing any electrical work recently?
 
Check the flame rectification probe (flame sensor) is OK and it's lead. Also make sure the burner port is clean and that the flame is not bent.
 
Don't suppose the polarity to the boiler has been changed? Have you been doing any electrical work recently?
. We have yes but how could the polarity change ? Can i check it as i have a multimeter and if the polarity had changed what would this cause?
 
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Check the flame rectification probe (flame sensor) is OK and it's lead. Also make sure the burner port is clean and that the flame is not bent.
The flame sensor doubles up as the igniter and has been replaced and also the lead
 
My boiler pilot lights instantly on demand for hot water and heating but it wont go to main flame plus the igniter keeps going then after 20 seconds it goes to flame lockout. I've had an engineer out who changed the igniterand lead, new main PCB board and igniter PCB. Still no good so he tapped the gas valve and it fired up for a few seconds and then replaced that too but still it wont work. I stripped the old one just to see how it works and i think im right in saying the bigger valve lets the gas in and the smaller one lets gas to the pilot jet, the gas feed to the main burner seems to work from a vacuum, when you suck on the inlet pipe to the burner it opens a diaghram and for the main burner gas supply. So could it be my fan not working properly, or something else. The enginner has given up on it and suggest i buy a new boiler. I've spent too uch money on it for that. Can anyone help please
After searching this problem on here i found a topic relating to the condensate trap. Where would i find that
 
We have yes but how could the polarity change ? Can i check it as i have a multimeter and if the polarity had changed what would this cause?

By polarity change I mean that someone is feeding the boiler with a neutral instead of a live, and a live where the neutral should be. Often happens after DIYer has improved the kitchen wiring and gets a fused connection unit round the wrong way.

It would cause the pilot flame to go out before the burner gas valve opens. It would cause the boiler to try to relight, but it would never go to main burner.

Thanks for asking why, I thought I was just helping you with the likely cause. However, here goes.......

If the polarity is reversed, the half wave rectified current from the flame ionisation is the wrong way up and the boiler PCB rejects it. The boiler thus reads it as a 'no flame' and assumes the pilot burner isn't alight.
 
Have you checked the polarity (eg: connect multimeter red to brown, black to blue)?
 
so you have stripped the gas valve down into component form ?? :eek:

Ignore te above I did not read your post correctly :oops: old gas valve

If these boiler's work on the same principle as the csi condensing range they are one of the few (only ?) boiler's that will not ? ignite with the combustion chamber seal removed (?) this is due to the fact that they use the fan to pressurize the aps via a small jet in the air duct of the flue !!
as opposed to most other (?) boiler's that use the fan to suck ( negative pressure) the aps !!
 
Have you checked the polarity (eg: connect multimeter red to brown, black to blue)?
Simon may i thank you for your suggestion on checking the polarity.
You were absolutely spot on. The wiring was reversed in the fused spur to the boiler. All put back as it should be and the boiler fired up first time. Thanks once again
Mark
 
Glad you fixed it. Your repairers would not have looked for this scenario unless they had reason to believe the electrical supply had changed at the same time as the fault. I had the luxury of knowing what parts they had already changed, making the diagnosis easier.

So I guess there will be some cheap Ravenheat parts on ebay now?
 

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