Program the CO detector zone as 'Security'. This will make noise inside only.
Recommend pet friendly wired alarm sensors please
- Thread starter alan333
- Start date
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Hi again,
Once again thanks for your continued help.
I don't seem to have "security" as a zone attribute option. I have: 00 not active, 01 final, 02 exit, 03 intruder, 04 24 hrs, 08 push set, 09 keyswitch, 13 PA, 14 PA silent, 17 link, 18 spare, 19 fire, 20 tamper, 23 batt fail, 25 AC fail, 41 low intr, 42 high intr, 43 PSU fault, 53 secondary entry, 54 assistance, 55 bell fail.
Of the options (as I see them) :
04 24 hrs, 13 PA, 19 fire, 54 assistance - can all activate a full alarm.
20 tamper, 23 batt fail, 25 AC fail, 43 PSU fault, 55 bell fail - can all alert me via the keypad & horn.
But the keypad volume is set uber-quiet and we need the horn vol set 00, such that the entry tone doesn't wake one of us up (we work bizarre shifts but like the night mode when asleep).
So I'm left with 14 PA silent, which, according to my understanding, will activate +12v on channel 2 of the digital communicator (Output Address 0002 on the trigger header, the 5th pin from the bottom?).
Is this the only route to go, or is there some better way that I'm missing?
On consulting my notes the CO sensor is currently set to "not active" on full set so that it can't be a nuisance alarm. It's set to "intruder" on night mode and our "night bells" are silent so if we're sleeping it'll wake us up, but not the whole street. But it'll do nothing if the system isn't set, so we could potentially wake up dead if we're sitting watching the telly.
Thanks again for taking the time and effort to help. I promise I'll be done wi the questions soon.
Once again thanks for your continued help.
I don't seem to have "security" as a zone attribute option. I have: 00 not active, 01 final, 02 exit, 03 intruder, 04 24 hrs, 08 push set, 09 keyswitch, 13 PA, 14 PA silent, 17 link, 18 spare, 19 fire, 20 tamper, 23 batt fail, 25 AC fail, 41 low intr, 42 high intr, 43 PSU fault, 53 secondary entry, 54 assistance, 55 bell fail.
Of the options (as I see them) :
04 24 hrs, 13 PA, 19 fire, 54 assistance - can all activate a full alarm.
20 tamper, 23 batt fail, 25 AC fail, 43 PSU fault, 55 bell fail - can all alert me via the keypad & horn.
But the keypad volume is set uber-quiet and we need the horn vol set 00, such that the entry tone doesn't wake one of us up (we work bizarre shifts but like the night mode when asleep).
So I'm left with 14 PA silent, which, according to my understanding, will activate +12v on channel 2 of the digital communicator (Output Address 0002 on the trigger header, the 5th pin from the bottom?).
Is this the only route to go, or is there some better way that I'm missing?
On consulting my notes the CO sensor is currently set to "not active" on full set so that it can't be a nuisance alarm. It's set to "intruder" on night mode and our "night bells" are silent so if we're sleeping it'll wake us up, but not the whole street. But it'll do nothing if the system isn't set, so we could potentially wake up dead if we're sitting watching the telly.
Thanks again for taking the time and effort to help. I promise I'll be done wi the questions soon.
I think you want to get the CO detector to wake the dead (or dying 
) when it goes off but not wake the neighbours.
If you have a spare output, why don't you program the zone as a 17-LINK. Then connect a noisy box (like a sound bomb?) to the spare output, programmed as 51-LINK A, and program the link using menu 54. This way, the CO detector will just trigger the sound bomb and the Galaxy will just log it, not go into alarm.
Thinking about it, you could use the silent PA to do a similar thing, again with a spare output programmed as 03-PA. This way, the CO detector will trigger the output and the output will remain active until a code is entered. The messages could be a bit confusing, though (it isn't a PA!).
) when it goes off but not wake the neighbours.If you have a spare output, why don't you program the zone as a 17-LINK. Then connect a noisy box (like a sound bomb?) to the spare output, programmed as 51-LINK A, and program the link using menu 54. This way, the CO detector will just trigger the sound bomb and the Galaxy will just log it, not go into alarm.
Thinking about it, you could use the silent PA to do a similar thing, again with a spare output programmed as 03-PA. This way, the CO detector will trigger the output and the output will remain active until a code is entered. The messages could be a bit confusing, though (it isn't a PA!).
Thanks again. I think I'll leave the CO sensor as is for the moment. At least it'll wake us up if there's gas present on night set. Maybe long term I'll do as you suggest and connect it to another output, but I'd need to get the trigger header cable and a sound bomb or similar, as you suggest. Maybe on balance I should just connect it as 24hr. It's never gone off, and if it ever did I suppose it's 50/50 whether it would be day or night. If it's night time then we could cancel it within a minute or so anyway. Maybe I'd rather risk a nuisance alarm than die from not using it.
I got round to fitting the new PIR today. Wired it as you said (same as the old one). Checked that the tamper is working, and walk tested it. It's on soak for the moment. Felix hasn't set a paw near the room so far. We're trying to think of a way to entice him onto the dining table without confusing the heck outa him. He knows he's not allowed on the table so he'd be onto us big time if we encouraged him with treats. The best we can come up with is to "accidentally" leave a bag containing cat-nip on the table, and seem unaware of where he is and what he's doing. If he knows we're watching him he'll think it's a trick and that we might end up eating him. I'll report back on that.
Disclaimer. We don't endorse eating cats.
Thanks so much for all your help, it's much appreciated.
I got round to fitting the new PIR today. Wired it as you said (same as the old one). Checked that the tamper is working, and walk tested it. It's on soak for the moment. Felix hasn't set a paw near the room so far. We're trying to think of a way to entice him onto the dining table without confusing the heck outa him. He knows he's not allowed on the table so he'd be onto us big time if we encouraged him with treats. The best we can come up with is to "accidentally" leave a bag containing cat-nip on the table, and seem unaware of where he is and what he's doing. If he knows we're watching him he'll think it's a trick and that we might end up eating him. I'll report back on that.
Disclaimer. We don't endorse eating cats.
Thanks so much for all your help, it's much appreciated.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "dialler/siren" but if you can feed it 12V and get noise out of it, it'll do!
Remember that the outside bell should stop after 15/20 minutes even if triggered by a 24Hr zone so you shouldn't drive the neighbours completely nuts.
Btw, if I remember correctly, you can use the Scantronic header on the Galaxy pins - just watch the colours, they're different.
Oh yes, and an apology. I've been checking the Galaxy 8/16/...500 book and not the 2-12. That'll teach me not to re-read the posts!
Remember that the outside bell should stop after 15/20 minutes even if triggered by a 24Hr zone so you shouldn't drive the neighbours completely nuts.
Btw, if I remember correctly, you can use the Scantronic header on the Galaxy pins - just watch the colours, they're different.
Oh yes, and an apology. I've been checking the Galaxy 8/16/...500 book and not the 2-12. That'll teach me not to re-read the posts!
Dialler/siren was my best shot at describing it, sorry if it was rubbish. The original installer labelled it's feed cable "internal sndr + bt line" It's a plastic box about 8x4x2 inches screwed to the wall next to the BT master phone socket. It contains a loud siren type thing and the cable going to the BT socket. There's some circuitry in there too hence my assumption that it was a dialler.
It has 3 pairs of wires, they went to the following points on the old motherboard: red & black to "+" and "-", blue & yellow to "T" and "a picture of a bell being hit by a hammer", and grey/white and green to "A" and "B". Thinking about it now red & black will be power feed, T and "picture of bell" will be tamper return and sounder, and A and B will be phone line.
So I can feed it 12v, and take an output to the sounder. If I set my CO sensor attribute to "17-link" then it won't generate a full alarm but will activate a channel on the trigger header. Set that channel to be 51-link and the only thing wrong is 51-link is a reflex so will stay on until the gas clears. Alternatively I could set them both to be Silent PA, which is a latch, so I could silence it by entering a code?
Now, do I need a proper trigger header cable, or can I jam a wire in the relevant orifice with a bit of a match? Am I correct in thinking you're saying I could use a Scantronic header cable instead?
No worries about the slight difference in installation manuals - I'm grateful for the help.
It has 3 pairs of wires, they went to the following points on the old motherboard: red & black to "+" and "-", blue & yellow to "T" and "a picture of a bell being hit by a hammer", and grey/white and green to "A" and "B". Thinking about it now red & black will be power feed, T and "picture of bell" will be tamper return and sounder, and A and B will be phone line.
So I can feed it 12v, and take an output to the sounder. If I set my CO sensor attribute to "17-link" then it won't generate a full alarm but will activate a channel on the trigger header. Set that channel to be 51-link and the only thing wrong is 51-link is a reflex so will stay on until the gas clears. Alternatively I could set them both to be Silent PA, which is a latch, so I could silence it by entering a code?
Now, do I need a proper trigger header cable, or can I jam a wire in the relevant orifice with a bit of a match? Am I correct in thinking you're saying I could use a Scantronic header cable instead?
No worries about the slight difference in installation manuals - I'm grateful for the help.
Program the CO detector zone as 'Security'. This will make noise inside only.
Prog as 24hr, same as, but different as
Prog as 24hr, same as, but different as
Thanks Europlex but 04 24 hrs seems to be "as an intruder zone but permanently active". Therefore it'll generate a full alarm if the CO sensor detects gas. It's maybe the route I'll go down but what I'm really trying to achieve is to set my CO sensor to only sound inside the house, and not annoy the neighbours. Ideally if the Galaxy only logs the condition but doesn't go into full alarm then the rest of the alarm would still be protecting the house?
Hence the suggestion of using "link" or "silent panic" and using a different output.
Any further help much appreciated tho.
Hence the suggestion of using "link" or "silent panic" and using a different output.
Any further help much appreciated tho.
You do know that CO is invisible and can not be detected by smell don't you?
Better to wake the whole street in this situation if it should happen.
Buy a detector from your Gas company, not ebay.
Hey guys just an update.
I haven't done any more with the CO sensor. At the moment it's only active on night set. I'll decide whether to make it 24hrs or PA on a separate output once I've checked out the existing lounge siren. I've discovered a water leak in the en-suite now so that's been taking precedence this afternoon.
Walk tested the cat on the dining table this morning. One of us sat in the room and threw treats around while hardly moving our body. We had the cat jumping from floor to chair, chair to table, table to floor, running around on table or floor etc for about 10 mins. The only time it triggered was when we moved our body too much, it didn't notice the cat whatsoever. I'm pretty confident that the cheaper sensors are a winner but will leave it on soak for a bit to be sure.
Thanks again.
I haven't done any more with the CO sensor. At the moment it's only active on night set. I'll decide whether to make it 24hrs or PA on a separate output once I've checked out the existing lounge siren. I've discovered a water leak in the en-suite now so that's been taking precedence this afternoon.
Walk tested the cat on the dining table this morning. One of us sat in the room and threw treats around while hardly moving our body. We had the cat jumping from floor to chair, chair to table, table to floor, running around on table or floor etc for about 10 mins. The only time it triggered was when we moved our body too much, it didn't notice the cat whatsoever. I'm pretty confident that the cheaper sensors are a winner but will leave it on soak for a bit to be sure.
Thanks again.
I'm not trying to be argumentative and I'm grateful for the help you guys have given, but I don't see any benefit of a full alarm condition if there's CO present. I'd rather it was only notified to people inside the house, or the first person to enter the house if we're out.
We have great neighbours but I believe they would consider it a nuisance alarm since I wasn't being burgled. I also believe that every nuisance alarm I have will make them take a little less notice of my alarm, whether genuine or not. I understand the chance of a CO alarm is slim since it's a professional quality sensor and the boiler is serviced regularly etc, but I'd like to lessen the nuisance alarm odds further if it's possible fairly simply.
Hence I'm thinking of other options. Do you think there's a flaw in my plan to be notified of CO by utilising the existing unused internal siren and a spare output from my control panel?
We have great neighbours but I believe they would consider it a nuisance alarm since I wasn't being burgled. I also believe that every nuisance alarm I have will make them take a little less notice of my alarm, whether genuine or not. I understand the chance of a CO alarm is slim since it's a professional quality sensor and the boiler is serviced regularly etc, but I'd like to lessen the nuisance alarm odds further if it's possible fairly simply.
Hence I'm thinking of other options. Do you think there's a flaw in my plan to be notified of CO by utilising the existing unused internal siren and a spare output from my control panel?
Based on experience of ammonia alarms in a building with industrial freezing equipment.
The internal alarms and ( using the spare output ) an indication it is CO and not burglar related are necessary as the essential safety actions are different. For CO the reaction is immediate evacuation or to open window for fresh air.
An external alarm with the indication of the alarm being CO related could save life if the neighbours know how to react to it and people inside are not able to act to save themselves.
The internal alarms and ( using the spare output ) an indication it is CO and not burglar related are necessary as the essential safety actions are different. For CO the reaction is immediate evacuation or to open window for fresh air.
An external alarm with the indication of the alarm being CO related could save life if the neighbours know how to react to it and people inside are not able to act to save themselves.
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