Reinforcing Loft floor for heavier storage

Drawings would be really appreciated Mike. But my floor beams are not 4x2, but actually 3x2. The 4x2 beams your referring to are in a very small corner of the loft and are simply screwed down on top of the 3x2 floor joists.

When I have some time, I will life a full line of the chipboards screwed to the floor and properly check the lengths of these joists.

Is this what you are looking for? :-

https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example8.1/
 
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No I was not looking for typical loading values chart but breaking capacity of timber beams, i.e. at what average loading would a 4x2 in beam over a span of 12 ft break in half. when it is subjected to a load mid way. (depending of course on different types of timbers and number of knots that may be present) In structural timber beams they specify C16 rated beams.)

On another issue, I covered a small section in my house which leads to the garden, so I constructed a flat roof measuring 6ft across and 7ft in length, I used 2x2in planed timber beams 11 of them at approx 7" centers, (Planed timber is actually 1.75" ) and it has supported the weight of 4 average built persons without any problem, and has stood firm, despite jumping on it from a height of 2 feet from another level, it is felted and I use this sub roof to go onto my main flat roof over my kitchen extension where I have a big telescope that alone weighs
75Kg, it takes 3 people to move it as it is a delicate instrument, so this little flat roof can take the weight of 3 persons plus the telescope with no problems.

I think I am being paranoid about my loft that has 4x2 sawn timber joist, that wouldn't need strengthening and will take load from items I am going to store without significant deflection.

Yours may be a problem due to smaller size, I would simply run 4x2s adjacent to existing 3x2 long as they are supported on your middle wall and the wall plates.
 
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Yours may be a problem due to smaller size, I would simply run 4x2s adjacent to existing 3x2 long as they are supported on your middle wall and the wall plates.

Thanks Mike. Could you possibly please draw a diagram or show me pictures of what you mean? It'll help me make sure that I do a solid job and not a cowboy one. I need to understand exactly what directions the new joists would go, which walls they would attach to, whether I would use joist hangers or take out bricks to rest them on the wall.
 
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securitynewbie, unfortunately as there are structural issues when it comes to use of loft space in a mega way, it would not be a good idea that I or anyone could give advice on these public forums, what if someone else whose situation may look very similar but altogether different, and starts using this thread as a reference and starts adding timber beams to his loft to strengthen it and not knowing full well about loads spreading, beam sizes and load bearing capacities, maximum deflection allowed, dead weights, live weights, many many other factors too which even BR don't bring into consideration, things can go disasterly wrong, house insurance can become invalidated, so due to these issues a specific advice on how you can strengthen your loft floor cannot be given, though we can discuss in general what is really needed, and how some owners did theirs, possibly using proper plans and builders, and inspected by BC, its not about safety of your own family but those of neighbours, take for instant, someone took his chimney breast out, and did not support the upper stack adequately, it collapsed breaking through his bedroom floor, and also damaging his neighbor's property, luckily no one was killed but it could have been fatal.

If you PM me your email, I could email you some links and sketches and give you some general direction, but end of the day you are responsible for safety of yourself and those around you, and answerable to your insurance company, what i am doing in my loft is my responsibility, and I don't do any guess work, I always double check figures, sizes, find out more about things , ask builders, go to places where they are carrying out jobs and watch them see how they do these things, fortunately lots of my friends had their lofts converted, they asked me to come and have a look whilst work was going on, so I managed to see how steel girders are inserted, and supported, all to BR and BC standards.

we have already discussed what size joist should be, now a days 7"x2" is what is required, even though it looks overkill, but this is one way your insurance company will not be able to dispute a claim should there be a collapse, but if you used 4x2 or 6x2, then they could refuse a claim. So I hope you see my point some things on these forums cannot be taken at face value, but as a general guide.

Currently, I have laid 15mm chip boards from disused wardrobes, someone next door to me was throwing away 4 of them, I asked if I can take them, and so I made use of them as the floor boards, they serve my purpose very well, cost me nothing, and allows me to walk in gently and put stuff away, evenly distributed, I can't see any problems, as long as you use your common sense, don't put heavy duty floor boards weighing tons, and don't store very heavy items, like lead acid batteries! reams of paper or books, just light bulky household things, like your beds, they are ok, they are large and so weight is evenly distributed over a larger area, remove wheels if you can, same for cupboards and wardrobes, lay them flat, and empty. you may not even need reinforcing, and it may be just adequate as is.
But you need to measure deflection, using a piece of string held at each end of the ceiling about 10 to 15mm below, from each wall, stretch it straight, and then measure the mid point of thread to ceiling gap, after storing stuff does this gap close up? that is your deflection.

Currently another friends is looking for a builder to have his loft converted to a dormer. I will be watching that construction with an eagle eye, and take lots of pictures, and measurements)
 
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