Remote & Touch Control 2 Way Dimmers

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Hi Guys

Really learning a lot by reading through this site - well done everyone.

However, I just want to be certain I'm correctly connecting some switches I bought today.

They are some touch and remote controlled dimmer switches. They are to replace two switches (2 way) in my lounge.

I've unscrewed one of the existing switches from the wall, and it's got one cable going into COM, and 2 cables going into L1 and two cables going into L2.

The new Varilight switches don't have the same markings on them. They have Live, S (slave) and "squiggle arrow (Load)".

Am I correct in assuming the existing COM cable goes into the new switches "Live", and the other 2 x 2 cables go - 2 into the "S (slave)" and 2 into the "squiggle arrow (Load)"? Also, why don't the new switches have the same markings as the old ones? It would make life a lot easier!

I haven't taken the other switch off the wall yet, but I assume that will be just the same.

Hope someone can help as I don't want to damage or break anything!
 
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what do the instructions say? (since you have it and we dont)

also in genral the squigly line with arrow is common, hence read instructions

also try a search, those switches can be a pain (if you read what is written on here)

also note my signature (the last bit in particular)
 
I have done a search, but couldn't find the info hence the post.

The instructions which came with the switches aren't clear either. They show circuit diagrams, but that isn't really helpful to me. Since the markings on the new switches are different to my existing ones, it isn't simply a matter of transferring cables over (like to like) as I thought it would be.

Thought that most existing installations would follow a set pattern of wiring for two way switches, and the instructions with these 21st century versions could simply say how to connect your existing wiring into the new switches (assuming the existing installation is correctly wired, and if the two way switches work they must be correctly wired).

Also thought that the experts here could follow what I'd written and say if my assumptions were correct. I thought it would be a simple "yes" or "no" from a qualified person. I'm obviously not an electrician. Sorry if I've troubled you.
 
its no trouble at all.

they can not provide a "simple" diagram becuse it depends how your 2 way switching is actualy wired, there is no standard way, but there is only one way it works, but as i said it depends on how who did it did it (if you see what i mean)

you have to transpose your new switches to the old ones

it may help if you can post what you can see in both switches

(as you did for the one switch)

i will have a look for you, but its late in the day

just done quick search, but i cant list the page :cry:

try this

go to the search type in "varilight dimmer"

DO type the " and the "
 
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IIRC, the varilight dimmers require the 2 dimmers to be connected together identically with 3 core and earth cable (which you should have (red, yellow, blue OR black, grey, brown)) (all 3 terminals carried over)

Then the switch drop from the light is connected to the LIVE and LOAD on one switch.

You MAY NOT have the 3 core and earth cable, as your original 2-way wiring was wired differently and some methods dont use 3 core and earth. If this is the case, you will need some. These switches have to be wired this way.
 
switches9uj.jpg
 
Thanks for all your help thus far guys. Appreciate it.

These are the existing wiring colours / groupings:

At one switch I have the following:

COM = Brown
L1 = Brown & Grey (2 cables together)
L2 = Black & Blue (2 cables together)

At the other switch:

COM = Brown
L1 = Grey
L2 = Black

This is how I wired the dimmers:

At the Master Switch:

Live = Brown
Load = Brown & Grey
Slave = Black & Blue

At the "Slave Switch":

Live = Brown
Load = Grey
Master = Black

BUT, it didn't work! I tried swapping the load and lives around as suggested in the instruction leaflet, but that didn't work either. I double checked the earth, which seemed OK.

Any suggestions guys...?
 
what happens if you diss connect the slave (t the slave end, do insulate the ends with tape just for this short period)

i ask because these do seem to be a "prolematic" if you read the previous posts about them

does the master one work on its own?
 
Hi Breezer

Tried your suggestion but the master didn't work on its own.

Couldn't get it to work so called a friend's brother who's an electrician and it took him about two minutes to cross over a live wire after he'd looked at a wiring diagram. Hey presto it worked!

Many thanks for everyone's help. If it wasn't for my ignorance I could have done it myself but at least getting a pro in I know it's working and nice and safe as well.

Regards to all.
 

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