repair shower trap cracking from underneath?

C

charliebean

Shower tray, a Coram Waterguard, has begun to flex a bit on one side when stood on. Took a look underneath and there is a crack on that side underneath. It's only a matter of time before it gives way I guess. It does have five supports under there but I guess it's not enough support where it matters.

I could replace it with a new one but it will be a faff because of the tiling and small space and I'm not sure I will be able to access the back supports without cutting a hole in the plasterboard in the room behind the shower.

So I'm wondering if there is something I can use to repair the crack - I could perhaps use a standard fibreglass repair kit but being upside down I'm not sure how well that will go as much of the resin may drip down. But maybe that is the best idea, or perhaps there is some kind of tube of epoxy stuff I can buy to make the repair?
 
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If you are adamant that you can't take it out then it needs fibreglass and then a thick piece of plastic glued to the underside and then support it fully down to the floor with a nice thick baton to stop it flexing but it really is a bodge as the casting is already compromised & will go eventually.

It really needs replaced.
 
Thanks Madrab, you're right, it needs replacing, and I've had a think about how to get it out and replace it. There are a couple of inches to the side and front now we've removed the skirting, so if we can lower it so the lips clear it we can slide it forward and to the side and hopefully then tilt it up on the other side and slide it out. Then I can get a new one and get it back in the same way.

There are five supports, one middle the others the corners. Got four off - one was extremely difficult. The remaining one is even more difficult, right at the back and I have to lay on the floor arm all the way underneath to the corner past pipes to get my hand to it and it is too stiff to undo. Have you any tips for how to get it to loosen up and start undoing?

I don't think I can get a spanner of any kind on it, I don't have one that massive anyway, but with the limited space and pipes it would be very difficult anyway. If no one can give me a tip on how to do it the only way is going to be to cut a hole on the other side of the wall so I can get my hand in close to it, but I really want to avoid that if possible. I'm so close.
 
Large jawed pump pliers? If you're ripping it out and replacing it though then just cut the tray into bits with a jigsaw so you can get to the hard to reach places.
 
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Large jawed pump pliers? If you're ripping it out and replacing it though then just cut the tray into bits with a jigsaw so you can get to the hard to reach places.

of course, yes, had it in mind still that we needed it but as we're replacing it I can pop a hole in it. Hopefully it'll all fit. The legs bolted the bottom may make it difficult. I can cut it in two of course, but I need to get the new one in with the legs on too so we'll see how it goes. I do not want to have to re tile or take a whole wall out!
 
Lowered it but it doesn't fit to take it out. We can cut it in half of course but we won't be able to get the new one in.
Here is a photo:
http://imgur.com/MDfyY8G
Behind the left side are pipes and studs. Behind the right side are studs. In front of it is a stud in the wall again, which in theory we could remove and slide out, except that we won't be able to get it out all the way due to the radiator opposite which is too close to allow it.

I think this leaves us with needing to remove some of the bottom tiles, enough to allow us to tilt it up and out and the new one in in reverse? Not sure on the practicality of this though as we'd have to remove the tiles and the bottom portion of the board they are attached to, and if we do that how do we make good again? Do we really have to remove one whole side of tiles and reboard and retile after?
 
Is there enough space to slide the tray out towards where you are standing if you take the rad off? That would be the way to go then. Then it's only taking out 1 or 2 courses of tiles and then freeing it on the 3 sides and slide towards you. new one then goes in the same way.
 
Is there enough space to slide the tray out towards where you are standing if you take the rad off? That would be the way to go then. Then it's only taking out 1 or 2 courses of tiles and then freeing it on the 3 sides and slide towards you. new one then goes in the same way.

Here's another photo to show in front of the shower:
http://imgur.com/a/r0jDV

I don't think it can be slid out to the front without removing two metal studs on one wall. Here's one pictured below and there is another presumably at the corner where this piece of plasterboard ends. I can't slide between the studs because the room actually narrows about an inch toward the radiator, so they'd have to come out.
http://imgur.com/5YHrtZJ
We'd probably have to take the radiator off on the other side also, which we could do but not drained the system before (it was installed with the valves closed).

So it is that or remove about 6 or 7 tiles (I guess they are not actually individual tiles but say 10 per tile) off the bottom (right hand side probably best as pipes on the left) and I think that would allow the tray to be tilted in and out. I think this might be easiest, though the tiles are well stuck in place - what do you think? Wondering if there is some way I could cut these half dozen rows of tiles off with the board they are attached to, and soak them to get them off the board and then reuse?

I guess it would then be a case of attaching the replacement patch of board to the studs on the left and then tiling onto that once the new tray is in place?
 
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Hmmmm, not the best approach to try to soak/reuse etc IMO. Taking out small bits will always be noticed too as they can never be replaced the same, better to do it in larger sections and all the way around so the replacement sections look uniform as you look in.

If it was me I would look to cut say 300 high all the way around and then lift the tiles and board away. Difficult one though as it's obviously tile on top of board, you may have to cut all the way through the tile grout adhesive then board too, 2mm angle grinder blade, mask, goggles n ear defenders and cut the whole sections of tiles and board out. Cut it super clean and straight.
Lift tray.
Once the shower's out then peel another course of tile upwards to reveal that upper side of board join. Fit new tray & seal in etc, replace sections with new board down to the tray, rejoining the top and bottom sections again with scrim and finishing coat. You could then use a course of square black mosaic to cover the join and form a transition to the new tiles below. Then use a 300mm square black tile or whatever to the tray edge and reseal again.
 
Hmmmm, not the best approach to try to soak/reuse etc IMO. Taking out small bits will always be noticed too as they can never be replaced the same, better to do it in larger sections and all the way around so the replacement sections look uniform as you look in.

If it was me I would look to cut say 300 high all the way around and then lift the tiles and board away. Difficult one though as it's obviously tile on top of board, you may have to cut all the way through the tile grout adhesive then board too, 2mm angle grinder blade, mask, goggles n ear defenders and cut the whole sections of tiles and board out. Cut it super clean and straight.
Lift tray.
Once the shower's out then peel another course of tile upwards to reveal that upper side of board join. Fit new tray & seal in etc, replace sections with new board down to the tray, rejoining the top and bottom sections again with scrim and finishing coat. You could then use a course of square black mosaic to cover the join and form a transition to the new tiles below. Then use a 300mm square black tile or whatever to the tray edge and reseal again.

I looked the tiles up, they are 30.6mm long, 13 rows, so if cut there it *should* be the end of the tile. I say should because the full height of the shower is likely not a multiple of 13 meaning either the top or bottom will be short and I don't know which it is. Not sure what can be done to check for sure, but if it is the bottom then can cut the tiles on that side all off with the board they are attached to. Keen to do just one side in order to keep the angle grinder away from the pipes on the left and there are electric wires at the rear. We can't find any of these tiles for sale at the moment as the house is ten year's old but maybe we can find some if we look harder. If not, we may have no choice but to reuse the tiles (meaning great care taking them off not to break them or damage them. It's not just the shower in these tiles but the sink area etc so we don't want to have to redo the lot!

The angle grinder is a good idea but it worries me as it would be easy to damage the tiles with a slip and it'd create a lot of mess, as you point out. Could a hand drywall saw be used instead, do you think? The cut wouldn't be as clean but could be tidied up and a good job done on the join when new board installed.
 
A drywall saw will get through the drywall, but not the grout and adhesive I wouldn't think, that's where the angle grinder comes in. If you have a dremel then a diamond edge cutter on that would do the same and you can get an accurate cut with that.
 
Multi tool with a grout blade attached is the safest and less messy way to get the tiles and board off but beware any cables and/or pipes just below the board - a multi tool will at least allow you more control when cutting.

When you come to fit the new tray, I would build a platform using 3x2"s (or whatever height you need) and ply and stick a resin tray on top - do away with the flimsy type on legs altogether!
 
Most of the grout out. Dremel was used, as suggested, as it was easier to control than the multi tool. Got two tiles off so far. The middle one by the stud came off very easily as the board behind was rotting by the stud, I think moisture must have been condensing on the metal. The rest of the board seems much more solid and harder to get the tiles off but we're slowly getting there. Once all four are off on the one side, we'll cut the board off cleanly with the multi tool and patch a replacement in. It appears to be moisture resistant plasterboard with the green covering so I plan to replace with the same. Don't need much but looks like you can only get it in large panels.

The tiles will have to be reused as you can't buy them anymore.

Good advice about building a platform. I'll give that some thought. I've already ordered the replacement tray which comes with the legs bolted on. It did last ten years this last one, and we'll be redoing the whole en-suite way before then so it may be that it will be sufficient to last for now. If not then I'll go ahead and built the platform now.
 

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