Replacement for Honeywell T6060 thermostat - advice please

[kennykoala]

Hi

I'm a new bug and know zilch about plumbing or central heating. I very much hope that one or more of the excellent experts here can help me.

My house has four Honeywell T6060 room thermostats and my wife would like them to be replaced by modern thermostats with digital read-outs.

We do not know which thermostats on the market are suitable and my electrician (fully Part P and all that) says he is being given conflicting advice by suppliers and cannot get a straight answer from anyone. One supplier suggests one thing, only for another supplier to say it won't work.

The thermostats are as shown in the pictures below.

The wiring, from the top, is as follows:
Grey
Red
Blue
Yellow

Inside each thermostat is a sticker that reads:
T60608 1047
8119

The thermostats each control a zone valve and fire up or switch off a gas boiler.

Could you please advise what choices we have? My wife would very much like the replacements to have clean lines, if possible.

One other thing - yes, we've been told that the Honeywell T200 is a direct digital replacement for them. Unfortunately, my wife hates the look of it. She has a thing about wavy lines and it has a wavy line at the bottom. Beats me, too, but that's the way it is.

Any suggestions most gratefully received.

Honeywell T6060 room thermostat

• kennykoala
• 12 Aug 2008
• 1

Outside view, beige plastic with metallic gold face plate

Honeywell T6060 interior

• kennykoala
• 12 Aug 2008
• 1

Inside of Honeywell T6060 showing wiring for boiler and zone control valve

 

[Congreave]

I would suggest finding an electrician that has experience with wiring and fault finding on central heating, as not all do, or a heating engineer who is Part P qualified. If you have four zones the wiring will be more complicated than your average system.
As for aesthetics, you'll find most digital room stats are cheap white plastic, but Siemens and Horstmann's offerings look fairly smart.

 

[kennykoala]

Many thanks for the reply, Congreave - appreciated.

Our electrician is fully Part P but he is getting conflicting advice from different suppliers and he says the wiring diagrams are not much use.

Totally agree that most room stats look like something out of a lucky dip bag.

Will press Seimens and Horstmann to see if they can provide suitable alternative. No reply from either so far.

Just in case anybody else wants to replace Honeywell T6060 thermostats, Sunvic has now got back to me to say that their TLX 7501 does the job.

If anybody else has suggestions, please send them in!

 

[simond]

First suggestion:

Tell your electrician to foxtrot oscar and get some training.

Second suggestion:

Fit Honeywell's CM907 in place of each old unit. Live in and live out only required, the other two cables should be safely terminated and set aside.

 

[kennykoala]

Thank you, Simon.

Will go and look at the CM907 now and see if it passes the style test for my better half.

Re:

First suggestion:

Tell your electrician to foxtrot oscar and get some training.

Electrician is 6ft 4in ex-Marine, rugby-playing prop forward in his spare time. I am not, so need to approach your suggestion with a degree of caution.

My getting some training might be an easier course of action.

Heatmiser tell me their prt models will work.

I also approached another thermostat company, who by way of reply sent me their full installation instructions.

Here they are, in their entirity.

Installation
Open the two buckles on the case by small-sized flathead screwdriver to unweave the connecting wires and fixate the case on the wall by screwing two snails into the two side holes.

Classic.

Thank you again for your help.

 

[twgas]

Fit Honeywell's CM907 in place of each old unit. Live in and live out only required

the blue would be neutral but the black is probably a power off connection which you would need with some mvs

 

[kennykoala]

Thanks for your input, Mick.

Will pass this on to FO the electrician in due course. He now has a new nickname.

Our builder is called EB, as in Evil B******. He revels in the title but I might keep the electrician's to myself until the job is done.

 

[simond]

It is a mistake to get fixated with colour codes*. Many heating installers used to use their own. I do advocate 'winging it' a multimeter is the only sure fire method.

If they are MOMC valves (unlikely) then the CM907 can handle that, as it is a changeover switch.

* Just fitted some new Honeywell 2 port valves yesterday, the orange and grey are now red and grey........

 

[kennykoala]

And grateful thanks to you, too, Simon.

It is a mistake to get fixated with colour codes*. Many heating installers used to use their own. I do advocate 'winging it' a multimeter is the only sure fire method.

If they are MOMC valves (unlikely) then the CM907 can handle that, as it is a changeover switch.

* Just fitted some new Honeywell 2 port valves yesterday, the orange and grey are now red and grey........

You just went way over my head but I'll pass this on to FO, who will understand.

 

[gizzer]

One other thing - yes, we've been told that the Honeywell T200 is a direct digital replacement for them. Unfortunately, my wife hates the look of it. She has a thing about wavy lines and it has a wavy line at the bottom. Beats me, too, but that's the way it is.

My professional opinion would have been to replace the ONE wife instead of FOUR fully working thermostats!

 

[D_Hailsham]

The terminal connections of a T6060 are:

1. Live IN
2. Neutral
3. CH ON
4. CH OFF

It is very unusual to have a wire connected to CH OFF, so you need to find out why it is there. The most likely answer is that you have Motor Open - Motor Closed zone valves (most valves are motor open - spring closed)

Modern digital thermostats do not require a Neutral connection.

As well as the Honeywell CM907, which are wired versions, have a look at the CM927 which are wireless. They might be more suitable as they can be linked together so one thermostat is not trying to turn the boiler off while another wants to turn it on.

If you don't want programmable stats, Honeywell have just introduced the DT90E and DT92E, which are CM 900's without the timer facility.

 

[marin]

Hi I have the same model thermostat as the original poster, I have 5 of them in different rooms in an electric only flat using economy 7. The flat has old underfloor heating. My thermostats only have three wires, I am thinking of changing to the Horstmann Centaur 7. After reading up it seems I wouldnt need to connect the neutral wire. The Centaur 7 manual seems to suggest it has a connection for the neutral wire labelled parking, does this just save me from tidying up the cable? As I need to control 5 different zones do you think this device will work correctly?

Here is the instruction manual, it does mention a configuration whereby the stat is "controlling a second zone on a ful;ly pumped system" I dont know if thats what I have or not.

http://www.horstmann.co.uk/download.../CentaurStat7-InstallationInstructionsMk2.PDF
Thanks in advance.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Hi I have the same model thermostat as the original poster, I have 5 of them in different rooms in an electric only flat using economy 7. The flat has old underfloor heating.

Do you mean electric underfloor heating?

If so you can forget about pumps; you won't have one. And as for zones, each room with a thermostat in it is a separate zone; the thermostat controls just the heating in that room (zone).

Which model thermostat do you have (give the full number as there are many versions of the T6060)?

Most thermostats are not suitable for electric heating as the current carried is to much for the switch contacts. You have to get one which is designed for the job.

 

[londonboy]

Id assume marin would have come contactors somewhere. As those old honeywell stats can't switch a big load.

 

[marin]

Thanks for the replies, yes electric underfloor heating, Ill find the exact model number tomorrow, think it may say 6060a but will double check.
I think Ive got a contactor next to the fuse box, I have two old style fuse boxes with pull out fuses - about 6 in each. One box is labelled heating, so I guess it has a fuse for each room/zone.
I wasnt sure exactly how the heating worked, wondered if it was conected to the boiler but perhaps not.

Im getting the kitchen done and having new consumer units, I had thought about getting the thermostats done by the electrician at the same time but though it might be easy enough to rewire myself.

If anyone can recommend an appropriate thermostat that would be great. Digital display if poss not too bothered about programming. Not too expensive as I have to buy 5!
Thanks.