Replacing a back door

[sunkat92]

Hi,

I would like to replace a back door which is now 20 years old. It is part glazed panel G2? hardwood door and last year I used Sikkens to paint the outside whilst doing the exterior of windows. The door panel has been damp on the inside for a while so therefore the Sikkens on the outside is now blistering. (the door is West facing and suffers extreme weather conditions). Ideally I would like to buy a glazed hardwood door unpainted and apply the Sikkens. Does this have to be done buy an expert (to keep insurance valid and maintain secuirty)? I also understand that hanging a door is an art and I would be doing this for the first time. The alternative would be to wait and replace all windows and door with PVC ones but am not convinced of their security albeit future weathering would be reduced.

What are the factors in choosing such a door eg (oak or pine) dowelled or mortice and tension? And can i buy them without a finish so I can apply the Sikkens without the need for stripping the existing finish.

Thank you.

 

[squowse]

why is the door damp on the inside?

if you can get it dry just give it a good sand down, clean and let it dry in the sun then apply a finish. sikkens is a good brand.

it doesn't sound like there is a need for re-hanging or replacing with
plastic. just apply the finish correctly to a dry surface

 

[sunkat92]

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The seal on both the single glazed unit has gone and is always full of condensation. Also the seal on the panel at the lower half of the door has gone and is always letting in wet. The top of the door is warped and proud of the frame on the inside and difficult to lock and then re-open. The bottom of the door always sticks and we have to 'lift' the door everytime we open it. There is nothing wrong with the frame and the 3 adjacent windows and frames are sound. I think when they built the house they just installed a cheap plywood panel door on which would have been ok had there been a porch or canopy but as the back of the house (west facing) bears such extreme weather, a sturdier door seems to be needed. Especially since we are in an out of it throughout the day.

I have since looked up M and T and this seems the most secure but also the best for coping with extreme weather as opposed to dowelled.

Which is more suitable oak or hardwood please? The one plus I can see about plastic although I really don't like the look or trust the security is that they would not warp or swell with weathering.

Thank you
Kate

 

[HowlinWilf]

Oak IS a hardwood, Sunkat92. As for which hardwood you opt for, which wood do you like the look of best? Hardwood doors will be more durable and less prone to movement than a softwood door (pine)

Mortice & tenon joints are much stronger than dowelled joints - does anyone sell a hardwood door that has been constructed with dowell joints? Just get a properly-made quality door of the wood of your choice, and then thoroughly coat it with the finish of your choice.

As for hanging it, doors (esp, hardwood external doors) are bloody heavy and difficult to handle, so I would get it done professionally.

 

[sunkat92]

Thanks for the reply Howlinwilf.

Yes i will defiinitely get someone to hang the door professionally. It's just I would find it easier to ideally paint the Sikkens on the new door (paint it out it in the garage) before it is installed. I understand that doors have to be stored flat before they are installed. I suppose to stop warping? Last year I found the Sikkens undercoat really difficult to work with. It's not like gloss - it feels like trying to apply melted chewing gum. I know that's probably the resin stuff that helps it breathe with the wood that makes it 'chewy'. We chose it for the ultraviolet prigmentation in the top coat to cope with the extreme weather on the back of the house. (The existing door and windows were practically stripped of dark Sadolin stain so I sanded the whole lot down to the bare wood to apply the cream sikkens.This summer is supposed to be very hot so I want the door done right so it lasts a long time.

Yes Kershaws doors are selling a dowelled construction door that is Redwood engineered hardwood. Thanks for the tip re construction I queried the oak v hardwood here as some shop sites seem to advertise white oak, mahogany and hardwood doors (as if hardwood is separate). I know oak is hard but I wondered why they distinguished between them.

Anyway as long as the door is M & T half glazed hardwood unfussy (Gx2) secure and safe I can paint that and let the professionals do the rest.

Thank you for the advice and prompt reply
Regards
Kate

 

[squowse]

Thanks for the reply Howlinwilf.

Yes i will defiinitely get someone to hang the door professionally. It's just I would find it easier to ideally paint the Sikkens on the new door (out in the garage) before it is installed. I undretsand that doors have to be stored flat before they are installed. I suppose to stop warping? Last year I found the Sikkens undercoat really difficult to work with. It's not like gloss - it feels like trying to apply melted chewing gum. I know that's probably the resin stuff that helps it breathe with the wood. We chose it for the ultraviolet prigmentation in the top coat to cope with the extreme weather. And this summer is supposed to be very hot!

Yes Kershaws doors are selling a dowelled construction door that is Redwood engineered hardwood. Thanks for the tip re construction I queried the oak v hardwood here as some shop sites seem to advertise white oak, mahogany and hardwood doors (as if hardwood is separate). I know oak is hard but I wondered why they distinguished between them.

Anyway as long as the door is M & T half glazed hardwood unfussy (Gx2) secure and safe I can paint that and let the professionals do the rest.

Thank you for the advice and prompt reply
Regards
Kate

hardwood is probably a bit like "vegetable oil", ie they're not going to commit themslelves to say what it is, just whatever's cheap at the time.

"redwood" always denotes softwood ie pine, a least as far as i am aware.

you don;t say which sikkens product you are using, ir sounds like it may have been a bit cold. make sure the product and door are stored at 15-20 degrees ie in the house probably and preferably apply it inside as well. outside on a warm overcast day is also good. in the direct sunlight can give problems with drying out too quickly.

 

[sunkat92]

Thanks. I shall bear that in mind. Yes I was beginning to wonder if hardwood meant it was made up of all sorts. I don't want a Heinz 57 door. The windows are John Carr and I want the door to be at least of the same quality. But they don't make John Carr windows any more.

Redwood - I see what you mean. I must have been thinking of Rosewood (I think that's hard isn't it. I think they make guitars out of it?)

Sikkens I am using is Rubbol and Onul.

Yes it was cold and windy. It has rippled on the windows. Is that why. I thought it was cos I thinned it with white spirit?
Anyway
Thanks
Kate

 

[HowlinWilf]

Squowse is right - 'hardwood' is a generic term meaning that it could be whatever stocks of hardwood they had left and is not of 'furniture grade' appearance (only suitable for painting). But it would still be a perfectly good robust heavy door (as long as they've made it properly).

And, redwood is exactly as Squowse suggested - its always coniferous softwood of several possible species. (There's no way at all that the door would be rosewood - it would cost you thousands!).

Good luck with the painting!

 

[sunkat92]

Thank you for your help Howlinwilf and Squowse. It's good to learn these things so thanks for the advice.