Replacing a cast iron soil stack with plastic

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Hi,

I'm in the process of fitting a new bathroom suite and I’ve discovered that our cast iron soil pipe is corroded and leaking so needs replacing.

I've read through a few threads on here and I intend replacing the soil stack with black plastic or imitation cast iron.

Here is a photo showing the middle section and where the leak is


Here is a picture of the bottom section


And Here is a picture of the top section.


Questions.

1. I believe there is something called a "timesaver" for converting from cast-iron to plastic. Can somebody provide a link to an actual picture of one? I've tried googling timesaver but all I get pointed to is an entire catalogue of plumbing items not the actual item itself.

2. I will be cutting the cast iron pipe with a diamond disc on my angle grinder. Do I want to be cutting as close to ground level as possible or I am better off making the cut about say 12" above ground level in case I crack the pipe while I'm grinding, to be honest the vertical bottom section appears to be in much better condition than the horizontal section (where the leak is).

Thanks in advance
 
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TIMESAVER
Page 8

or one of these.
96056.jpg
 
That is a timesaver fitting but why would you want to use that ?
Cut the cast close to the ground and use the fitting above.
Be careful as that cast is heavy.
 
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That is a timesaver fitting but why would you want to use that ?
Hi onecog,

I was going to use the timesaver simply because it's the one that almost every thread on here recommends. Basically someone asks the question "How do I convert from cast iron soil pipes to plastic soil pipes?" and the answer almost always given is "You wanna be using a timesaver mate".

To be honest, the one you and seco services are recommending, ie this one
with its 2 push fit ends, looks a lot neater, simpler and is a lot cheaper than the "timesaver".
So why do so many people on here recommend the "timesaver"?
 
Here is one i've used but try and keep yours about 2 inches higher out the ground or the gestapo will be on to you saying that it shouldn't be in cement.....lol

 
Thanks for all the advice so far chaps.

Now my next question (probably daft).

When I replace the vent bit in plastic (as circled here)


I guess I need a couple of bits of straight pipe, plus 1 of these


and 2 of these to create the bend around the guttering


These parts are all push fits, so what stops them from turning and/or blowing off in stong winds, as they will be above the guttering?
 
These parts are all push fits, so what stops them from turning and/or blowing off in stong winds, as they will be above the guttering?

Yes 2 offsets and a vent.

They can be a bugger to seperate at the best of times let alone turn or blow off in the wind.
 
Er.... Yes. :oops: (Was trying to multitask and clearly failed miserably.....)

No problem,

The one screwfix are calling the top offset says in the description that it's a push-fit to solvent weld, but the one they are calling the bottom offset only mentions push-fit. From your experience is the bottom offset also push-fit to solvent weld or are both ends of it really just push-fit?

To be honest I can't understand why these parts would be push-fit at all. I would have thought building regs would have insisted that anything above guttering and therefore not directly attached to the house would have to be entirely solvent welded.
 
Just bang some srews into the pushfit offsets to stop them rotating on the offset.

Also be V careful with solvent weld and black plastic as it dries white so be neat
 
just make sure you don't end up with the abortion like next door, I'm glad i don't sleep in that room with the window open.

As someone else said, take it down a little bit at a time cast is really really heavy :!: :!:
 

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