Replacing a pressure guage on a Worcester 24cdi

[kmac]

Hi fellas, my pressure gauge is faulty, the dial is completely unresponsive - sitting on the max pressure for a good few months (never discharged pressure out the back or anything) only going back to a true reading when something was done - i.e. letting pressure out thru bleeding/adding water - then continually creeping up to max.

I didn't get it replaced as a plumber mate of mine (who's now gone travelling *g!t*!!) said it was fine with the faulty dial, but now i need to re-connect a rad that i had taken off about a year ago, so really need to know the true pressure as after bleeding it's gone down to 1 bar and won't move no matter whether i bleed or add pressure.

i bought a new dial and it looks like a simple case of removing the pin, pulling the old connector out and putting the new dial connector in.
Is there anything to stop me doing this? i.e pressure escaping/dangerous etc etc Or anything that i need to do first?

Obviously i would like get a plumber in, but things are a bit tight after being made redundant and need to cut as many costs as possible within reason!!

Cheers in advance for any input!!

Kev.

 

[45yearsagasman]

You must de pressurse your system b4 removing the pin and pulling out the capillary tube.Cover the control panel with plastic to prevent water in the pcb.It may only be that the gauge is blocked in the tube or in the plastic housing.It worries me that the gauge is creeping up to max again.That indicates maybe a failed plate heat exch.Won't be the fill loop unless you leave it in position and not turned off correctly.

 

[kmac]

You must de pressurse your system b4 removing the pin and pulling out the capillary tube.Cover the control panel with plastic to prevent water in the pcb.It may only be that the gauge is blocked in the tube or in the plastic housing.It worries me that the gauge is creeping up to max again.That indicates maybe a failed plate heat exch.Won't be the fill loop unless you leave it in position and not turned off correctly.

Thanks @45yearsagasman; Do i just need to drain a few litres out the system rather than completely draining it?

i always remove the key from the loop, so tht should be ok.

I don't know what the true pressure is really - the dial doesn't rise any more it just stays static at just under 1 bar no matter what i do!

If the pressure was really at 4 bar would the boiler have been functioning ok for that mount of time with no side effects?

 

[45yearsagasman]

Those boilers have small drain cocks built in underneath the boiler.Remove the panel underneath by pulling it down off its clips and look for two hexagonal white screw in fittings which can be used to drain boiler.I put a bowl or bucket underneath.A few litres will suffice and you will be able to tell when enough has been drained.Close the cap on the air vent(top lhs) whe doing this.Your boiler ha a 3 bar PRV so in theory system should not go to 4 bar.

 

[kmac]

Those boilers have small drain cocks built in underneath the boiler.Remove the panel underneath by pulling it down off its clips and look for two hexagonal white screw in fittings which can be used to drain boiler.I put a bowl or bucket underneath.A few litres will suffice and you will be able to tell when enough has been drained.Close the cap on the air vent(top lhs) whe doing this.Your boiler ha a 3 bar PRV so in theory system should not go to 4 bar.

Thanks for that, i managed to chnge it over and it's as steady as a rock on 1.5 bar now. (except when used of course!)

when i was filling it up it just kept pouring out the overflow out the back until i turned the boiler on, then it stopped and the pressure stayed. Wasn't sure why this was, but it's all working now so i guess it doesnt really matter!

thanks again.