retro fitted trickle vents - nightmare

[lostheadnail]

I have a condensation problem .. a builder advised me to fit trickle vents - he said it was a doddle of a diy job. I read online how to fit them and all seemed easy so ordered and got to work with my drill. Ah, but inside the (easy to drill) UPVC is a stainless steel frame - and now I'm stuffed. Drilling SS with standard HSS bits no coolant and in a very awkward position) the drill chuck is tight up against the upper part of the recess. Couldn't get enough purchase to drill big holes so tried smaller ones then using a bigger bit - took hours and still not even halfway and I shudder to think of doing this at the top of a ladder to get through from the other side ... yes there seem to be two steel plates What's worse is that the SS is not firmly fixed and seems to flex so no way to punch .. so drill wanders as well. Now read loads about coolants (but that would just run down into the frame and then where ?! cobalt drills, putting a block of wood behind (haha), step drills (I think these would be too stubby to reach into the frame to get the right hole size and might overheat anyway). they are Anglian windows roughly 2000 vintage
Any ideas guys - I'm totally defeated by this.

 

[winston1]

Not sure why this is in the electrics section but......

Have you considered why you have a condensation problem? Could it be that you never open your windows - very unhealthy.
Try opening them a crack, much easier than what you are trying to do.

 

[JohnD]

the reinforcement might just be in and near the corners, catches and hinges.

Try a magnet.

 

[ExpertGlazing]

In this instance it is probably best to fit the trickle vents to hide the damage to the frame and to resolve the issue of the condensation another way. There are more likely causes of condensation than having no trickle vents. Could you tell me more about the condensation? Perhaps I can help.

 

[crank39]

It won't be stainless for a start, more like 1mm galvanised c section steel or possibly ali box section either way HSS bits should easily go through, reinforcing doesn't go right to the corners either, stops about 100mm short.

If your drill chuck is close to the reveal maybe you should of fitted the vent in the opener instead, I always do!

And don't think trickle vents are the single answer, they'll help but you'll also need to find out why you have so much condensation and alter your lifestyle if that's what's causing it

 

[Gazman16]

As others have said trickle vents should be a last resort to help improve things. Just locking the windows slightly open on the night vent does the same thing but at least you can close it properly when its really windy or cold out.

If trickle vents are your only option give up on the one you have started. Get a bit of pvc trim to cover the holes you have made and fit the rest in the opening sash's. You can unscrew them and do all your drilling on a bench or the floor which will make life much easier.

 

[lostheadnail]

thanks guys .. lots of good practical advice here. It's an upstairs window in an exposed position facing the prevailing wind so I tend to shut it most of the time in the winter (which is when the build up starts). The wall to the left of the reveal has efflorescence through the wallpaper (see attached), though curiously not to the right, and also in an area along the inside wall of the room (up to about 50cm to the left of the reveal); the radiator is on the other side of the room so this window space has the potential to get cold (despite being dg) because of aspect. There seem to be three options here: I keep my window cracked, I take out the opener and fit the vents in that (like that idea), the builder's casual reference that it is condensation is wrong and I am wasting my time anyway!!

 

[Gazman16]

That looks a bit beyond condensation to me more like a leak.
Check all the silicone sealant around the outside of the window (get some photos while your out there too).
Also get a pic of the outside showing the window and what is above it. You may have a leak above the window that is getting into the cavity.
Was the window fitted by a window company or a builder? If by a window company is it still under guarantee?

 

[lostheadnail]

thanks Gazman16 .. I'll get some photos - not easy as it's a wild wild area on that side of the house!! - back soon.
Fitted by Anglian .. seemed to do a good job I recall (it was year 2000ish so long out of guarantee I presume - but I'll check that). I seem to remember that there was no problem when we had single glazed windows .. which I have to admit in hindsight, is very odd because that alcove must have been freezing in the winter before dg.

 

[JohnD]

not sure that's a cavity wall. How thick is it?

You say the problem seems to have arisen since the window was changed, so it may well be poor, gappy fitting.

yes, photo of outside will help. Also look at it during rain in case the gutter is spilling. Binoculars will help.

 

[lostheadnail]

house built 28 years ago. This is an extension .. about 20 years old .. definitely cavity.
here are some more piccies.
There are two slots above the window which are filled in with translucent silicone .. I seem to remember somebody saying that these slots should be left open - could that be part of the problem?
Thanks for everything guys

 

[lostheadnail]

I should have added that I had cavity wall insulation put in here also about 15 years ago ... and you are going to ask whether the problem started after that .. answer: I don't know. That side of the house was so cold so we did dg & cavity wall (blown fibre stuff) at about the same time - I think the cavity wall insulation may have gone in about a year before the dg.

 

[JohnD]

where are these slots?

 

[crank39]

Could well be the problem, they're weep vents in the perp joints and they let water out, if blocked water could well be running to the end of the catnic lintel and wetting your plaster reveal, the blown insulation may also be holding it like a sponge

 

[lostheadnail]

JohnD
there are two over the top of the window .. you can see the rightmost one on the bottom left and bottom right pictures of my last post. brick height vertical mortar pointings replaced with silicone