Rover 45 power steering leak

[DIYspanner]

2001 TD

I posted about a slight leak about a year ago but the leak, about two drips a week was not causing too much hassle.

Having decided to rectify it, I've pressure washed (with the battery disconnected), top and underneath all round by the pump and pipes yesterday.

The leak seems to have increased since washing as there's a small pool of fluid underneath and having topped the fluid up, when I drive there's a swish sound on both locks when turning the steering.

Obviously the water jet has disturbed something - any ideas what ?

 

[Burnerman]

There's no reason for the leak to get worse just by washing......unless you have disturbed the rubber boots covering the track rods.
Is the PAS level up to the top? Its usually low level that causes the swishing noise but of course if the PAS drive belt is now wet it could be slipping - but usually only on full lock.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Thanks Burnerman

As soon it stops raining I'll get it up on the ramps and investigate which was the plan yesterday after I'd washed it but of course, it started raining - the joy of living in NE England.

The fluid level had dropped about 1/8" below min but I topped it up before I started the engine.

I use Granville dexron 3 and Granville seems to be good quality.

 

[Burnerman]

Aye, Dextron 3 is the one.
Hopefully its a leaking boot rather than corrosion from steel pipes - I have had the odd car in with leaks from the cooler pipes that hide in the radiator region.....all the road crap coming through the grille does nothing for their longevity!
John

 

[DIYspanner]

I've found the leak and of course, it s worse case.

Its on the top of the pump, the joint between the front plate and the alloy body of the pump.

With the engine switched off you can see it bubbling as the fluid comes out.

Time to source one from a breakers yard and figure how to drain, remove, install replacement and bleed.

 

[DIYspanner]

I've had the idea of clean all the leak fluid off with petrol then applying some heat resisting gasket glue that I have - worth a try ?

 

[Burnerman]

A pic would help, but I'd doubt the success of any external sealant.
There shouldn't be any problem with getting one from a breakers (Newburn maybe) and they self bleed.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Here's a couple of photos as best I can do

The alternator looks a lot of hassle to remove and how do I drain the fluid ?

 

[Burnerman]

It looks like the engine mounting will have to come off, but I've never done one.
Usually I disconnect the pipe from the reservoir tank and drain what I can from there, but there's sure to be some spillage.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

I'm curious about the box attached to the front of the alternator and behind the pulley.

It has a small metal pipe and a larger rubber pipe. What's inside the box ?

 

[Burnerman]

Can't see it clearly I'm afraid.....(small screen) is it not the pump itself?
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Here's two close ups showing the pipe connectors -

The metal pipe is in the center

Here's the flexi, at the top (at the top)

If its a pump, what's it pumping ?

 

[Burnerman]

Apologies! I can see it better now.
Its the vacuum pump to work the brake servo.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

So there's no fluid in the two pipes, merely air ?

If I can get the alternator removed and gain enough access, I'm going to attempt to clean the pas pump at the joint and see if a bead of gasket glue (like a weld) run over the joint will stop the weeping.

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, thats about it.....with PAS pump off, give us a pic if you can, maybe a bead of araldite would be more successful, I don't know. The area would need to be spotless though.
John