Saunier Duval Xeon 60FF boiler won't run. Fan Hunting?

Gasgeezer. Sorry I don't understand. The boiler won't fire up in the first place. All that happens is the flue fan keeps going on & off for about 1 second each time. The pilot should light when the 3 rd led lights but only 1 & 2 are lighting, which according to the manual mean there's a problem with the fan/air pressure switch/tubing or main PCB.
 
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I would go back to Kevs post and investigate supply fault to fan, possibly pcb, as this has proved boiler works with a fly lead :rolleyes:
 
Just look and see if the pilot is alight if it is only the neons 1 and 2 will light.If not have you put the link in terminal 9 and S/L ON THE PCB.Also recheck the wiring on the new pcb and the polarity or the wiring harness to the fan
 
The pilot light is not lit. It normally only lights when leds 3 & 4 on the pcb are on. The boiler isn't getting anywhere near to trying to light the pilot light it's just turning the flue fan on & off. I tried reversing the wiring to the fan and it still did the same either way round. I haven't altered any wiring since it stopped working, I've just swapped the PCB & APS wire for wire really. Just checked & link 9 is still there.
 
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was your new pcb manufacturers original part replacement or some cheap independant look-a-like :?:
 
gasgeezer said:
Just look and see if the pilot is alight if it is only the neons 1 and 2 will light.If not have you put the link in terminal 9 and S/L ON THE PCB.Also recheck the wiring on the new pcb and the polarity or the wiring harness to the fan
Just re-read your post, do you mean if the boiler "thinks" the pilot is lit before it starts, it won't fire up?
 
gas4you said:
was your new pcb manufacturers original part replacement or some cheap independant look-a-like :?:

Hmm, I see what you mean, I'm thinking more & more it's still the PCB too. It looks pretty genuine from the box. It has "Glow-worm, awb, pro-therm, Bongioanni Genuine factory replacement parts" all over it. I suppose there could be something else wrong which has Kn%$£ked up the replacement board too!
 
Rule 1, never assume a new part is working correctly because it is new :rolleyes:
 
Last problem i had like this was on the pott profile which im sure we have all experienced. It too took 2 apparantley new PCBs before it resolved the problem.

Ditto what gas4you said.
 
Gentlemen, thanks for all your help and for maintaining my sanity. Got the PCB swapped, they didn't seem happy, and with the second replacement pcb the boiler fired up straight away. Thanks again.
 
whats a PCB??, I think I might have the same problem on a similar boiler SD Thelia 23
 
PCB - Printed Circuit Board. In this case it's the electronic circuit board in the bottom of the boiler, which controls everything it does. It's easy to swap really - Switch the power off, remove all the wires (make note of where they came from) squeeze the plastic pillar/clips and the board should pop off. If you're not very confident with electrical bits it might be best to get a mate to help who is. My replacement board cost about £70 but, as you can read above, the first one was faulty. I've spoken to people since who say these new boards have a reputation of being faulty and you can sometimes try several before you get a good one!
 
I would expect your Thelia, being a combi , has a completely different PCB !!!

That S-D is a pretty similar unit to the Ideal Classic.

Tony
 
Ped106 has a seperate post for his problem Tony ;), but seems to ignore what I say :rolleyes:
 

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