Security light not working after dining room light fitting

[singled5678]

Hi All

Wondered if you can offer some advice.

My security light no longer works after a friend helped and installed a new light fitting in my dining room.

The switch for the security light is in the dining room, and nothing has changed in regards to the actual switches themseleves. The dining room switch and the security light switch were not touched.

Could there be a wiring issue with the dining room light fitting?

I understand it will probably be difficult to assist without images, so I can undo the light fitting and take a picture of how it is wired later. Just wondered if anyone had any initial thoughts?

Many thanks

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

There are few portabilities that the security lighting has failed.
Common problems after a replacement has been made are:
*The live or/and neutral outgoing loop has not been terminated
*Loose connections of either neutrals or lives
*Insulation of cable in terminals, not allowing conductive contact.
*The live outgoing loop has been terminated at switch live (this would result in the security light working when dining room light is on only)
*The live or/and neutral outgoing loop has become disconnected in the ceiling void.

 

[singled5678]

Thanks for the pointers, I'll take a look after work. Appreciated!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

My security light no longer works after a friend helped and installed a new light fitting in my dining room.

Doesn't work at all? Have you checked the bulb?

The switch for the security light is in the dining room, and nothing has changed in regards to the actual switches themseleves. The dining room switch and the security light switch were not touched.

So it's just a plain light with a switch, no PIR, no photocell?

Could there be a wiring issue with the dining room light fitting?

There could be. Check that all the conductors are properly in place.

Did you replace a traditional ceiling rose with a light that only has L/N/E terminals?

Do you have a multimeter?

I understand it will probably be difficult to assist without images, so I can undo the light fitting and take a picture of how it is wired later.

It will also be useful to know how it was originally wired.

Just wondered if anyone had any initial thoughts?

I think you should not let your friend fiddle with your electrics again.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Thanks for the pointers, I'll take a look after work. Appreciated!

A standard ceiling rose with incoming and outgoing loop would look like this.

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 21 Nov 2011
• 7

If the light has no rose then the central loop would either be a spare on the fitting or an additional connector strip would be used, to connect all the brown core loop conductors.
As you will see the switch live is sleeved to identify this, often when diyers and some shoddy tradesmen install these cables they don't ID cables, but this must be done.

NB:
New version of wiring colours to old version
Brown=Red
Blue=Black
Green&Yellow=Green&Yellow.

 

[singled5678]

Hi I've had a look and the light fitting only had L/N/e connections so looks like ill need to get a chocblock? I've read the wiki but to be honest I'm confused and will need to figure out which wire is which.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Indeed you will.

A multimeter will be very useful for identifying the switch cable.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Hi I've had a look and the light fitting only had L/N/e connections

So your so called friend, just hashed it up then? Excuse my french "imbécile incompétent"

So looks like ill need to get a chocblock? I've read the wiki but to be honest I'm confused and will need to figure out which wire is which.

You will, how many wires are there and what core colours have you got?
Is there one that has been sleeved, flagged or marked up in any way to indicate that it is switch live?
You will as BAS has pointed out require a "multi-meter", this will help determine the switch live wire and permanent lives by testing for continuity and voltage.

 

[singled5678]

Yep he has I am afraid.. to be honest I wouldnt have had a clue myself. Every other light fitting I have installed in my house has always just been L/N/E. I asked his help when I saw more wires than I recognised (which i now know why)

I will have another look this evening and take a picture, I only had a quick look last night as I am in the middle of decorating another room for my step daughter.

I dont seem to recall anything being marked up mind you (coulkd be wrong as not looked for it)

Thanks all
PS ordered a multimeter

 

[singled5678]

Untitled

• singled5678
• 31 Jan 2013
• 1

Best picture I could take in semi darkness[/img]

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

How are the reds in the ceiling connected?

 

[singled5678]

I'm not sure to be honest. I didn't go that far anything I should look out for thank you

 

[RF Lighting]

Make sure you turn the power off at your fusebox before touching any of that wiring.

The wiring will be permanantly live, even when your light is not lit up.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I'm not sure to be honest. I didn't go that far anything I should look out for thank you

Well Safely isolate first.

The red cables within the ceiling are going to be/should be, your permanent live loop.
I can only guess at this stage, you friend has connected all the perm lives together in a connection block. It could be possible, that when the connection was made, your friend, either left a connection out, the connection is loose, has not connected them all together or the insulation on the cable is preventing could contact.
This would also apply to the neutral loop (blue and blacks) so check they have no loose or bad contacts, as one seems to be exposed and it should not be. Best practise is to have no exposed conductors showing on live and neutral conductors, it is deemed non compliant. And there is evidence on your photo that contravenes that requirement. Also cable identification issues.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Why a yellow for switched live, I wonder?