I was thinking of putting ply on on my shed roof, but what thickness could it take weight-wise if I was to fix it on top of the planks already forming the roof? And would this be ok? Shed is 8 x 10 ft apex. Having taken off the old felt, I found the sky was visible between each roof plank, ie the people I bought the house off, had not used t+g close together but with a gap between each one, surely this was wrong?? The roof planks are not even butted up against each other. Also they had put the felt on with staples not clouts. No wonder it was leaking. Can anyone clarify this please, I thought there were supposed to be no gaps! Thanks. First time on any forum so bear with me!
Shed roofs again!
- Thread starter stangi
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Large gaps are a bit sloppy but seeing daylight doesn’t matter, it’s only a shed FCS & it’s the felt that keeps the rain out. I’ve just relocated & re-felted the roof of what was originally a quality but 30 year old 6 x 4 shed I inherited when we moved here 6 years ago. The corners & one edge of the roof are a bit moth eaten but all I’ve done is to put a couple of 45 x 20 supplementary treated trimmers underneath to give additional support & fixed a lump of treated 4 x 2 along the length of the apex; I can now happily stand on it & I reckon it will now outlast me! You can overboard or even replace the roof but you can usually extend the life of a basically sound but dilapidated shed roof just by providing a little additional support & doing a decent re-felting job; after all, what's the rest of it like! 
The rest of it is pretty good, thanks for advice, it's just a shed but I am hoping to use it as an art studio during summer months so had to do something about the leaks!
whilst i fully agree with richard
it all depends on how much support the planks have
i re roofed a 8x10ft shed last week
the 12mm planks had gaps and because they where unsuported for around 3ft some had twisted up by 12mm others have twisted down by 12mm needless to say they have puled the felt and ripped at the nails
i made 3 new roof trusses coverd the whole origional roof with 11mm sterling board and edged with 2x1" treated
i then added 4x2 above the door and installed a hatch in the apex to give roof access
it all depends on how much support the planks have
i re roofed a 8x10ft shed last week
the 12mm planks had gaps and because they where unsuported for around 3ft some had twisted up by 12mm others have twisted down by 12mm needless to say they have puled the felt and ripped at the nails
i made 3 new roof trusses coverd the whole origional roof with 11mm sterling board and edged with 2x1" treated
i then added 4x2 above the door and installed a hatch in the apex to give roof access
Sponsored Links
we would always use ply in preference to stirling, but as big-all syas the roof supports may need beefing up (his are only light to medium duty!)
wasnt my choice i wanted to use 12mmply i settled at sterling board as there initial idea was hardboard
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
