Hi folks,
Long-time lurker, first-time poster.
I'm building some built-in wardrobe sliding doors -- four doors at ~2200x800mm each across a 3m span floor-to-ceiling, with carpet underneath. Importantly, they're going to be wrapped in fabric so couldn't care less about paintability. I don't want them bowed though!
Searched for a few threads, looks like the wisdom is:
* use minimum 18mm MDF
* use moisture-resistant for added stiffness
* make sure both sides are treated evenly (doesn't apply in my case, unless light spray-glue counts?)
* using top-hung fittings to prevent bowing
* top-hung track needs to be perfectly level or the doors end up wonky
* you can use the Hafele Planofit straightening system to fix bowed doors
Current fittings option one:
* bottom hung
* https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/austin-sliding-door-gear-wardrobe-track-kit.html
Current fittings option two:
* https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/horus-sliding-door-gear.html
* but the bottom guides are crap, I really need a full-length low-profile guide.
* so merge in https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/fastor-sliding-door-gear-wardrobe-track-kit-spring-loaded-wheels.html for the bottom half.
Seems to work out to approx £120-£140 for fittings & ~£80 for doors either way.
Questions:
1. MR-MDF doors will work out to around 18kg each. Are these actually likely to bow when bottom-hung?
2. Would using OSB/chipboard/ply be less likely to bow than MDF? Since I'm wrapping it anyway...
3. Nothing else in this house is straight, so I expect the ceiling/opening won't be either, and I need to check it's on a joist (I think it is) or add bracing. Bottom hung seems simpler to me overall.
4. If I go with bottom-hung, should I add the straightening up front? Adding it will entail figuring out how to cut a long groove down the back...
5. Am I overthinking all this? Probably!
Cheers,
Rob
Long-time lurker, first-time poster.
I'm building some built-in wardrobe sliding doors -- four doors at ~2200x800mm each across a 3m span floor-to-ceiling, with carpet underneath. Importantly, they're going to be wrapped in fabric so couldn't care less about paintability. I don't want them bowed though!
Searched for a few threads, looks like the wisdom is:
* use minimum 18mm MDF
* use moisture-resistant for added stiffness
* make sure both sides are treated evenly (doesn't apply in my case, unless light spray-glue counts?)
* using top-hung fittings to prevent bowing
* top-hung track needs to be perfectly level or the doors end up wonky
* you can use the Hafele Planofit straightening system to fix bowed doors
Current fittings option one:
* bottom hung
* https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/austin-sliding-door-gear-wardrobe-track-kit.html
Current fittings option two:
* https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/horus-sliding-door-gear.html
* but the bottom guides are crap, I really need a full-length low-profile guide.
* so merge in https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/fastor-sliding-door-gear-wardrobe-track-kit-spring-loaded-wheels.html for the bottom half.
Seems to work out to approx £120-£140 for fittings & ~£80 for doors either way.
Questions:
1. MR-MDF doors will work out to around 18kg each. Are these actually likely to bow when bottom-hung?
2. Would using OSB/chipboard/ply be less likely to bow than MDF? Since I'm wrapping it anyway...
3. Nothing else in this house is straight, so I expect the ceiling/opening won't be either, and I need to check it's on a joist (I think it is) or add bracing. Bottom hung seems simpler to me overall.
4. If I go with bottom-hung, should I add the straightening up front? Adding it will entail figuring out how to cut a long groove down the back...
5. Am I overthinking all this? Probably!
Cheers,
Rob
