Stair handrail

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by grifter, 24 Feb 2009.

  1. grifter

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    I want to install a handrail up my stairs and just want some advise on a couple of issues. Firstly, what is the required height of the top of the rail from the nose of the stairs? I heard it was 32inches but please correct me if I'm wrong. Mainly though, if you look at my picture, you'll see that the stair wooden edge curves before the straight run up the stairs. Should I work from the nose of the 3rd stair up in the picture so the rail is parallel all the way up or from the wall at the 1st stair, which I would think looks odd, or is there a certain method for this? I only want a rail up the main stretch of the stairs I might add. If worked from the 3rd step up, how many brackets should I use. The length is 2.3 metres. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks :D

     
  2. PaulJR

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    Handrail height should be between 900mm & 1000mm, we use 900mm in commercial/industrial applications.

    Use the line of the straight portion of the stairs.

    Number of brackets depends upon what you are using for a rail, how strong your wall is, what you use for fixings.
     
  3. grifter

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    Thanks for your advise. The wall I will be attaching to is solid, plaster skimmed over masonry. I will be using a hemlock round rail with the appropriate brackets. Going on this, how many brackets do you suggest?
     
  4. big-all

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    i would personaly start just before the second step so someone strugling up the stairs can reach it before turning the corner also means you wont run out off handrail on the way down before reaching the corner
    i would mount the brackets on a 4x1" plained wall plate with each end cut like half an octigon with three facets and a simple moulding around the face edge secured every 250mm or ever stud
    first bracket 100mm from each end and the remainder spaced 600 to 800mm appart
     
  5. grifter

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    Thanks for your comments big all. I did actually think about starting further back nearer the corner, but I thought it might look strange not running parellel all the way up. I haven't done it yet, so I will definately bear that in mind. As for the brackets, I was just going to attach them directly to the wall. I haven't really got time to make plates, and are they really nesseccary anyway, although in some instances I can understand they may provide a stronger surface to screw to.
     
  6. PaulJR

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    What Al suggests is easier. Fasten a length of timber the the wall - with the fixings about 300mm apart, then fasten the rail & brackets to the timber - it's called a wall plate.

    If you try to fix the brackets direct you will not get all 3 wall plugs to take - one will always land in a mortar baed, and your rail will wobble.
     
  7. grifter

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    You guys obviously know what you're talking about. I will go with the wall plate to make sure it is nice and secure. Thanks for the good advise, and I'll let you know how it went
     
  8. cyclonebri2

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    Sorry for dragging up an old post but the picture the OP has posted is exactly the scenario I am working on at my daughters home.

    My query is given that with the kit of parts we have,ie, 3 x 1.2mtr Oak rail with 4 brackets and 2 ends, the only option is to run parallel to the nose line of the staircase as suggested above. It does however mean that the last 3 wider steps obviously do not have the handrail at the same level.
    With a direct to the wall rail you could simply run the rail horizontally fom the 2nd or 3rd step to conform.

    Anyway, I've installed it as initially described. As this is getting towards the end of a major refurb involving all trades, the build ins has still to come for the final inspection, will he have an issue??

    I should add that as the stairs turn through the 90 degs at the bottom there is a dwarf wall forming the end approx 1.4 in height from ground level. It's like this as originally it was glass block, now removed, from this height up which seemed ridiculous.

    I could always run a short section of oak rail mounted above this if needed but don't wish unless absolutely reguired????

    Any veiws :?:
     
  9. big-all

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    just draw the lines on the wall in chalk within the guidlines off the regs at a level thats comfortable extend the ends to a point where they overlap or finnish at a practical visualy pleasing point ;)
     
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  10. cyclonebri2

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    Exactly what I have done mate. they stop 25mm short of the top and bottom with the fancy ends on, that was with 30mm removed from a 3600 rail ;)
     

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