Teak Desk Rejuvenation Advice Please.

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Hello all, I've acquired a G Plan desk (actually it was a dressing table originally), its looking a bit ropey and I think it was actually being stored outside, I believe its solid teak rather than laminated. No matter, it is what it is and I would like to rejuvenate it, that's not say do a whole restoration job on it as frankly I only have limited time and budget what with working full time, kids and a member of the family who has various health problems most of the time which zaps much of my free time. So doing a bit of googling and it seems that basically the way to go is:

1) Cleaning
2) Sanding down
3) Treat with a couple of coats of teak oil.

If this is the right approach am and I OK to use an Orbital sander (as that's what I've got)? Of course I expect to do the hard to reach or more awkward areas with a sanding block instead, as required. What grade sandpaper should I start and finish with?

How should I be getting onto those handles to sand them back? I guess the sander will do a reasonable job or one of those spongy sanding blocks will suffice.

Or is this whole approach wrong? :oops:

I have read various guides where people used wire wool but that's not something I'm familiar with using. Should I be looking at that approach?

One thing that concerns me is that on the desk top there is a bit of a vertical bulge about 12" long and 2" wide at the front just behind the central drawer, its maybe bulges about 1-2mm higher than the rest of the desk top if you see what I mean? Now I could just leave this but should I be concerned? I guess it bulges after being left in the elements? As I don't posses any sophisticated tools I guess all I can do is smooth it down like the rest of the desk?


If someone can impart with some knowledge I would be ever so grateful. :)
 
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Its a bit difficult to see if there are any deep scratch marks, but your proposal is just fine.....wire wool is for the final polishing though!
I'd go for 120 grit paper first, and see how it goes.....try this on a non visible area if you can. If there are deep scores, go to 80 grit. If there are no scores, use as fine a grit paper as you can.
Consider 240 grit for the final sand down, but do avoid the dust!
John :)
 
Couple of points to add. be careful that the top isn't veneered. I seem to remember that some G-Plan furniture is part veneered If the top is, it'd be very easy to sand through to whatever's underneath.
I don't personally like wire wool with anything that reacts with steel. The bits can stick in the wood and cause problems later on. I use Scotchbrite or similar.
And wear a decent mask to protect yourself from the dust.
 
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Aye, Blo reckons its solid, but personally I'd doubt it.....I reckon the top is veneered with a solid lipping.
John :)
Yes, particularly with that bulge. If poss. check it for flatness on the underside. If it.s bulging underneath in the same place as on top, it may be the core material has got wet.
 
Yes, particularly with that bulge. If poss. check it for flatness on the underside. If it.s bulging underneath in the same place as on top, it may be the core material has got wet.
Thanks all, Dave, you're spot on, there is indeed a matching bulge underneath, there is also a small rebate that houses the middle drawer stop revealing some chipboard! So the bulge is here to stay, will go very easy on the sanding front.
 

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