Is when looking at the PIR mounted on the wall?
Texecom Premier 24
- Thread starter Northbeach
- Start date
Is when looking at the PIR mounted on the wall?
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As per the markings at the connections INSIDE the detector!
is it me or is this thread messy.
@NorthBeach.
Engineers reset means you need an engineer to reset the system when that fault occurs, with it turned off it because a user resettable condition.
If you are happy that the device is working, changing state. Then if you go into zone setup, 009, press no 0 yes, the zone should go back to not used.
menu menu 0 yes will get you back to day mode.
back into zone setup 009, no 1 yes, and the zone should be back as e/e.
That effectively resets the zone.
then repeat the tests, but if you get the same again is the door open or closed when your testing, and have you received the data from the panel to wintex?
@NorthBeach.
Engineers reset means you need an engineer to reset the system when that fault occurs, with it turned off it because a user resettable condition.
If you are happy that the device is working, changing state. Then if you go into zone setup, 009, press no 0 yes, the zone should go back to not used.
menu menu 0 yes will get you back to day mode.
back into zone setup 009, no 1 yes, and the zone should be back as e/e.
That effectively resets the zone.
then repeat the tests, but if you get the same again is the door open or closed when your testing, and have you received the data from the panel to wintex?
I think the poster at the top inadvertently posted on the wrong (but similar) thread.
Ok - I'll give that a whirl secureiam. Could that possibly reset the resistor alert (so it should read 2k when closed) or do I still need to tackle that?
I think you're spot on in that the resistors seems linked together as one (hence showing 6k closed or open), but it's how I sort that is the issue!
If I swap the black and green over in the contact (as your post mentioned the other way round) could that 'cure' the linked resistor issue, or would it have no bearing?
All the other door contacts are spot on (and the chime function is working fine also).
Struggling to see what else I can do...perhaps link a spare piece of 6 core up (loose outside of the wall) to the RKP (turning RKP tamper alert off)?
There's still a small gap I haven't finished off plastering at the top of the door frame I can push some cable to the door contact.
So close...but seemingly so far!
Many thanks.
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I would check the contact wiring/ contact its self.
If the cable was broken before the 4k7 or after the 2k2 you would be getting >65k so the cables cant be broken as its seeing 4k7 + 2k2.
-----4k7-----2k2---- is what your seeing so the device is wired incorrectly (resistors to the terminals), the gap is wrong so it doesn't work or the device is faulty wrt to the alarm part of the circuit.
if the cable was broken
-------/ /-----4K7----2K2------- or
-----------4K7----2K2-------/ /--- you would see greater than 65K as the system cant see the resistors completing a circuit.
The next thing is if its saying secure 6k9 then you need to check the wiring type is down as dp/eol as this would give you active rather than secure for that resistance.
If the cable was broken before the 4k7 or after the 2k2 you would be getting >65k so the cables cant be broken as its seeing 4k7 + 2k2.
-----4k7-----2k2---- is what your seeing so the device is wired incorrectly (resistors to the terminals), the gap is wrong so it doesn't work or the device is faulty wrt to the alarm part of the circuit.
if the cable was broken
-------/ /-----4K7----2K2------- or
-----------4K7----2K2-------/ /--- you would see greater than 65K as the system cant see the resistors completing a circuit.
The next thing is if its saying secure 6k9 then you need to check the wiring type is down as dp/eol as this would give you active rather than secure for that resistance.
Thanks secureiam.
This is becomeng a royal pain in the ****!
Sound good news (ish) that the cable most likely not broken (biggest fear).
As a slight update, there was another 6 core in the RKP (spare). Just on the off chance I'd used the wrong 6 core in the first place (this was wired before the walls were plastered so unlikely). Wiring that up actually showed Zone 9 to be 'secure' (once reset from active) but with a resistance of 100k - removed this core and put the original back in place. So I guess I have at least used the right cable.
Wired original 6 core back in - Zone 9 secure, but still resistance of 6k840.
This is how it's wired:
Twisted one leg of 2k2 and one leg of 4k7 together and placed under one silver screw.
Other leg of 4k7 (tamper - or is it referred to as EOL?) goes to other silver screw along with one wire.
Other leg of 2k2 (alarm) goes to brass screw with other wire.
Back to RKP (1st 'A' terminal and 2nd 'T' terminal - terminal 1 and 4 respectively.
This should be the same as the other (working fine) door contacts.
This may or may not be relevant: I did lose a tiny brass screw from the contact (could not find it anywhere!) but replaced it with a brass screw from a spare white/rectangle contact. Unless something a connector was lost when the screw fell out?
Wired as double pole/EOL rather than normally closed/open etc/
I'll pick up a battery for my multi meter later on - is there a way I can test the door contact? The magnet side is directly facing the contact (and the magnet is working).
Absolutely flummoxed!!
Cheers.
This is becomeng a royal pain in the ****!
Sound good news (ish) that the cable most likely not broken (biggest fear).
As a slight update, there was another 6 core in the RKP (spare). Just on the off chance I'd used the wrong 6 core in the first place (this was wired before the walls were plastered so unlikely). Wiring that up actually showed Zone 9 to be 'secure' (once reset from active) but with a resistance of 100k - removed this core and put the original back in place. So I guess I have at least used the right cable.
Wired original 6 core back in - Zone 9 secure, but still resistance of 6k840.
This is how it's wired:
Twisted one leg of 2k2 and one leg of 4k7 together and placed under one silver screw.
Other leg of 4k7 (tamper - or is it referred to as EOL?) goes to other silver screw along with one wire.
Other leg of 2k2 (alarm) goes to brass screw with other wire.
Back to RKP (1st 'A' terminal and 2nd 'T' terminal - terminal 1 and 4 respectively.
This should be the same as the other (working fine) door contacts.
This may or may not be relevant: I did lose a tiny brass screw from the contact (could not find it anywhere!) but replaced it with a brass screw from a spare white/rectangle contact. Unless something a connector was lost when the screw fell out?
Wired as double pole/EOL rather than normally closed/open etc/
I'll pick up a battery for my multi meter later on - is there a way I can test the door contact? The magnet side is directly facing the contact (and the magnet is working).
Absolutely flummoxed!!
Cheers.
4k7 across the alarm, and the two silver screws will be the alarm, exactly the same process as the surface contacts you have already done, just the screws are in a different arrangement because they sit inside the door and and door frame instead on the surface.
if you remove the 4k7 and leave the 2k2 intact what dio you get with the door open and the door closed?
closed 2k2, open >65k as the alarm circuit has been broken.
if it remains at 2k2 throughout, then the device isnt working, because its state isnt changing when you open and close the door.
1) the gap is wrong so its always open
2) the deivce is fault and its always staying open.
if you remove the 4k7 and leave the 2k2 intact what dio you get with the door open and the door closed?
closed 2k2, open >65k as the alarm circuit has been broken.
if it remains at 2k2 throughout, then the device isnt working, because its state isnt changing when you open and close the door.
1) the gap is wrong so its always open
2) the deivce is fault and its always staying open.
I'll take the magnet out the frame and press it close up to the contact...contacts are perfectly aligned but possible gap is larger than the back door.
Whenni return home I'll take the 4k7 resistor and re try.
Many thanks!!
Whenni return home I'll take the 4k7 resistor and re try.
Many thanks!!
do the magnet test first that may just be the issue, dont do more than you have to.
Ok - back.
Magnet taken off and placed directly on contact makes no difference (tried magnet on back door contact and it works fine there).
I've taken the 4k7 alarm resistor out..wasn't sure where to place the alarm wire that was in with it? Should I place it with the 2k2 silver screw - in the meantime I've got it in the other silver screw on it's own, but I assume there's no circuit - resistance is showing 100k.
Cheers.
Magnet taken off and placed directly on contact makes no difference (tried magnet on back door contact and it works fine there).
I've taken the 4k7 alarm resistor out..wasn't sure where to place the alarm wire that was in with it? Should I place it with the 2k2 silver screw - in the meantime I've got it in the other silver screw on it's own, but I assume there's no circuit - resistance is showing 100k.
Cheers.
okay
if you havent got a meter, take out the 2k2 resistor as well, put the wires across the two silver terminals.
so looking for almost no resistance with magnet close up and >65k when the magnet is nowhere near.
so all you are doing now is checking the circuit is opening and closing with the reed, you can set the wiring type to normally closed so you would get active/ secure and the resistance.
if you havent got a meter, take out the 2k2 resistor as well, put the wires across the two silver terminals.
so looking for almost no resistance with magnet close up and >65k when the magnet is nowhere near.
so all you are doing now is checking the circuit is opening and closing with the reed, you can set the wiring type to normally closed so you would get active/ secure and the resistance.
Cheers secureiam.
I have my meter working now, but I'll try taking the 2k2 resistor out and reporting the results back.
Then I'll try the multi-meter on the contact?
Hoping it's a faulty contact and that I can pick one up locally (rather than ordering and waiting a few days).
Bit of a bug bear now!!
I have my meter working now, but I'll try taking the 2k2 resistor out and reporting the results back.
Then I'll try the multi-meter on the contact?
Hoping it's a faulty contact and that I can pick one up locally (rather than ordering and waiting a few days).
Bit of a bug bear now!!
Bit of better pic of that door contact (I'd since replaced the blue and yellow with green and black but exactly the same set up).
Just about to try the contact without any resistors in (cores in a silver screw each).
Can there be that much that goes wrong with these contacts? Bit of plastic and wired connection underneath?
Will report back.
Thanks.
EDIT - Pic added.[/img]
Just about to try the contact without any resistors in (cores in a silver screw each).
Can there be that much that goes wrong with these contacts? Bit of plastic and wired connection underneath?
Will report back.
Thanks.
EDIT - Pic added.[/img]
Ok - when both resistors are out, I do indeed get 000k on closed and >65k when the door is open. This is show on the RKP. For some reason, Wintex shows this as 000k when closed but 100k when open (and reverts back to 000k when closed) - minor discrepancy?
100K is greater than 65K so not overly worried about that, the way you described it just reflects the panel programing versus the wintex.
If you measured with a meter probably higher.
the contact is working thats good.
Now put the 4k7 resistor across the two silver screws, leave the wires where they are.
Measure again open closed, should now get 0K closed and 4k7 open.
If you measured with a meter probably higher.
the contact is working thats good.
Now put the 4k7 resistor across the two silver screws, leave the wires where they are.
Measure again open closed, should now get 0K closed and 4k7 open.
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