Thermal stores and standing losses

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Given the sometimes "vigorous" debate on the merits or otherwise of thermal stores and heat banks, I thought people might be interested in my findings on standing losses. Given the debate I was curious ...

OK, I took great care to maximise insulation and minimise losses when I put my store in - but when I tested it on electric only heating I found the losses to be about 80W. My test method was to turn the boiler off and close the valve to prevent external flow round the boiler and CH loops, turn on the immersion heater, and leave for a couple of days to stabilise. I noted the electricity meter reading at the start, after a couple of days, and after another couple of days.
Unsurprisingly, it took a fair bit of energy at first to get the store to a stable condition controlled by the immersion heater stat. Then over the next couple of days it took about 80W average to keep it like that.
During winter (back in Dec/Jan when it was more than a tad parky), I also worked out (by a similar electric only method) that the heating load for the flat is around 2kW. So the 80W standing losses amount to about 4% of the heat load in winter.

For comparison, the house has a BG RD532 combi. From cold this can take up to a minute before hot water comes out of the boiler - it does seem to take an extraordinary time to fire up and ramp up the burner. I do mean a minute to get hot water out of the boiler (I timed it one day) - transit time to the taps is extra. That is with the "ECO mode" turned on.
To deal with this problem, it has a normal mode where it fires up periodically to heat up the main HE and DHW PHE. So over a couple of days I monitored gas usage with CH turned off and nothing else using gas. The gas consumption worked out to about 160W according to the conversion factor on the back of the bill. Given that's it's a significantly bigger property, this is likely to be a smaller percentage of the heating load - but that's not comparing like for like and just shows that you can show almost anything by picking the right numbers :rolleyes:

There is a conversion efficiency of one or other boiler* to take into account, but by my measurements, my store has significantly lower standing losses than the combi unless you enjoy waiting for hot water.
IMO neither are particularly significant significant, and the heat losses contribute to the heating input to the property - but I did think it might be a useful data point.

* And before anyone points it out, yes the store is currently fed by an old non-condensing boiler with a pilot light. That's on my list of things to deal with when time and funds permit.
 
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The losses for 200-300 li cylinders are usually quoted at around 1-1.5 kWh/24hrs.

But this is of course presumably with a room temperature surroundings. Put the cylinder in a cupboard and you reduce the heat loss.

I would say your method does not sound very accurate because unless done for far longer then the hysteresis on the stat will have an efffect.

But the figure you have measured does not sound right. I would expect about 800w.

Also for half the year that heat is not wasted but adding heat when its needed during the day although you could say that its wasted at night.

Tony
 
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The losses for 200-300 li cylinders are usually quoted at around 1-1.5 kWh/24hrs.
Which is 42 to 63W average
I would say your method does not sound very accurate because unless done for far longer then the hysteresis on the stat will have an efffect.
That's why I did it for a couple of days. The stat has a fairly low hysteresis, but you are correct - running it for longer would have been more accurate. IIRC I think I did actually take several readings over several days, and the variation wasn't huge.
But the figure you have measured does not sound right. I would expect about 800w.
That's 19.2kWH/day :eek:

... I found the losses to be about 80W.
80 Watt on what?
Do you mean it costs a continuous use of 80 W to keep it stable?
It means 80W. A Watt is a unit of power (ie energy flow rate), not energy so 80W means the power is 80W. If you want it in more conventional (it seems) units, it's 1.92 kWH/day.
That was averaged over a period, since the immersion heater is 3kw. For short periods the power drawn will have been 3kW (3000W), in between it will have been zero. So the heater will have been on for about 2.7% of the time (about 38 minutes per day), and off for the rest.

One minute to get heat out of the BG RD532 (approx 34kW) appears way too long. It probably starts with the burner on low and ramps up. Most do it the other way around.
Yes, it does seem rather poor. To start with it takes a while while it thinks about firing up - you can hear the flow switch trigger, and (IIRC) could to about 20 before it finally deigns to light up. Then it seems to fire up on low and slowly ramp up - I can be finished washing my hands before the water is warm !
It seems you have to plan ahead and send it a postcard to say you'll be wanting hot water. If you turn the hot water on and off again quickly, it triggers it to pre-heat so when you turn the tap on again a minute later it will be hot.
The gas consumption of the BG combi to keep warm the plate, worked out to about 80W per day, which is comparable to the thermal store.
No it didn't, it worked out at an average of 160W, or getting on for twice that of the store. 80W/day is a completely meaningless expression, what does 80 joules/second/second mean ?


It wasn't my intention to start a new religious war, though I did wonder whether to get the popcorn in :LOL: But given how people seem ready to throw various figures around with nothing behind them, I though it might be constructive to have some actual numbers done by measurement. Given that this combi isn't the only one with a "fire up periodically to keep warm" function (or something similar), it's interesting to see that this is far from free, and is in fact (for this combination) comparable to, or worse than, running a hot cylinder.
 

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